Life's a Beach | Expat Life in Playa del Carmen

Have you ever wondered what life is like in a Maya village today? What would it look like? How would the local people really dress, eat, work, pray and go about their daily lives? Are you interested in a cultural experience more meaningful than a quick stop for souvenirs orchestrated by a big bus tours on your way home from the ruins. I'm taking about a full day spent in a remote village talking with the local residents, meeting with village elders, learning about the proud history of the Maya in Quintana Roo. Personally, I am always on the look-out for these kinds of opportunities and this visit to the town of Señor arranged by Ojos Mayas and Xyaat Ecoturismo Comunitario Maya was just what I had been hoping for.

Our group left from downtown Playa del Carmen at 8:00 am. The tours are purposefully limited in size and there were just enough people to fill a small shuttle bus. The village of Señor is located 189 km from Playa, just to the west of Felipe Carillo Puerto. The trip took about 2 hours. The village was established 150 - 200 years ago and many of its inhabitants participated in the Yucatan Caste War. This is a community of approximately 3,000 people. Maya is the predominant language. The village elders between the ages of 60-90 speak only Maya. Their children, now aged 40 - 60, speak Maya but understand Spanish. Their grandchildren and great grandchildren speak a combination of Maya and Spanish.

Our local guide for the day was Marcos Cante Canul. Now 40 years of age, he started participating in the community's cultural activities at age 15. He began organizing this particular "tour" in 2003. Marcos is a member of Xyaat, a community co-operative that unites Maya communities with volunteers, guides and small tour operators. During the day, we had an opportunity to meet local residents, observe daily work and living routines. Marcos speaks only Maya and Spanish and his narrative throughout the day was translated into English for us by Angel, our Ojos Mayas representative. The village elders who shared their time and stories with us spoke only Maya which was translated first into Spanish and then English to accommodate our group.

Henequén thread has been made in the Yucatan peninsula for centuries and the process by which it is made has been passed down from generation to generation. The Yucatán is known for its henequén. In the early 20th century, more than 200,000 tons of henequén were cultivated and processed in nearly 200 henequén processing facilities throughout the region. The introduction of synthetic fibers in the 1950's caused an catastrophic decline in the demand for henequén. Less than 20 plantations are now left functioning producing only produces 5,000 tons every year. The majority of these fibers are used for decorative wall coverings and rugs, robes and twine.

Crecencio Pat, a respected village elder, demonstrated the laborious technique by which the fibers are extracted from the "leaf" of the agave plant, dried in the sun and then "spun" into stronger strands and rope. I jumped at the opportunity to try it myself thus solidifying my conviction that a career in manual labor would never be for me.

Crecencio Pat, 90 years young, is a descendant of Jacinto Pat, a general in the Yucatan Caste War (1847–1901).

Melipona bees and the remarkable organic honey that they produce is a major component in the economic activity in the Mayan region. The bees are tiny and sting-less and are kept in logs of felled trees rather than in modern bee keeping boxes. The nurturing of the bees and the harvesting of the honey is a long process producing little but the resulting liquid gold is highly prized and priced accordingly. The taste of this nectar is more complex than from the more productive European and Africanized honeybees. The honey from this particular species is renowned for is curative properties and is in demand for use in health, culinary and beauty products. Unfortunately, the bees are now endangered as are the secrets to the traditional methods of caring for them. The village of Señor derives a good income from the sale of this desirable product and I was delighted to be able to see the operation up close and to taste a bit of the honey.

Our next stop was to the home and garden of a Maya healer to learn natural cures and health solutions common to the region. Plant based medicine has been practiced by the Maya for centuries and I was eager to learn more about the types of plants, the growing techniques and conditions and the various applications. Sra. Catalina Ek Pat is 75 years old and is the village Healer. She maintains a wide variety of local plants, each of which is kept for its curative properties.These medicinal plants have been used for generations and are commonly applied today for contemporary ailments. Again, Doña Catalina spoke only Maya but seemed obviously pleased as we all listened intently and eagerly rubbed and smelled each specimen as it was passed to us.

Also at the home of Doña Catalina were two local women engrossed in their embroidery. The patterns they were creating were simple geometric forms based on natural themes, plants and animals. This was an enjoyable past time for the women of the village and one that could bring in a bit more income from the sale of the finished pieces. Regardless for age or social standing, according to cultural norms, a woman must not bring in more than the man of the household so much of this hand work is done for pleasure or for the benefit of the village and might be used in trade for items needed for the family. The care they took in each tiny stitch was beautiful to observe and they did not seem to mind us intruding on their afternoon gathering. They smiled politely at our group and erupted in a cacophony of laughter when we tried to get our guide to demonstrate "hamaca-sutra"!

The next highlight of this remarkable journey was to be found in the home of a revered elder of Señor. Don Abundio Yama Chiquil is 92 years old according to his passport but he thinks he may be as old as 94. He was quick to caution that the Maya used to enjoy a life expectancy well past 100 years, even reaching 120 until the introduction of modern processed foods and beverages. We stooped to enter his simple sturdy palapa home and settled in on the floor and folding chairs to listen to him speak. Under the light of a single bulb, we sat motionless, listening intently for almost an hour as he regaled us with stories of courage in the battles of the Caste War of the Yucatan ... Mayan resourcefulness and tenacity winning out over European might and gun-power! There is no first-hand written history of the Maya and so it lives on through story-telling and art. The promotion of oral history is instrumental in celebrating and protecting the invaluable contributions of the Maya, so that they can be shared with the outside world and passed down through generations of children and grandchildren. I can't do justice to the stories Don Abundio told to us ... the secrets he shared. You will just have to go and experience it for yourself.

After a fascinating visit with Don Abundio, we climbed back into the comfort of our van for a trip to Laguna Azul de Señor. Water is the heart of any Maya community. It touches all aspects of Maya life and is essential to the success of the village. Images of the flora and fauna that inhabit the lagoon can be seen in local art and handcrafts signifying its importance. The preservation of the lagoon, the plants and animals that live in and near this delicate eco-system is a high priority and this aspect of the tour helps to raise awareness about protecting natural resources. A firm commitment to the environment and the ongoing sustainability of the communities is integral to the Ojos Mayas - Yxaat relationship.

No cultural experience would be complete without a sampling of the local cuisine. At the end of a long but enjoyable day we were treated to a hearty lunch of eggs cooked with chaya, local squash, beans and the most delicious handmade tortillas that just kept coming fresh off the comal. Chilled agua de sandia was served out of hollowed gourds and helped put out the fire from the fresh habanero salsa that some of us had over-zealously applied to our meals. This was all prepared for us especially by one of the families of the Señor community. It was a delicious lunch and a nice time to sit a bit and relax and compare notes about our shared experience.

The Mayan heritage, culture and history has been pivotal in the development of the Yucatan and is crucial to its ongoing economic success. This "tour" is unique in that it enables visitors to take an in-depth look at a real Mayan society as it functions today in southern rural communities including Señor and Tihosuco. This experience provides visitors an opportunity to learn, strengthen and share information about the Maya culture, their communities, ideologies, traditions and current economic centers in 21st century Mexico.

Handmade souvenirs are of course available for purchase and are all made by members of the community from natural products, honey, regional plants and wood. The sale of this merchandise provides communities the ability to build their economic centers while visitors can carry home a reminder from this unique experience to share with friends and families back home.

The Ojos Mayas Maya village experience is structured to provide visitors with a basic history and overview of the modern day Maya living outside Felipe Carrillo Puerto in the village of Señor. The residents of Señor have managed to preserve traditional Maya language, culture, heritage and culinary arts and are eager to share their lifestyle and history with guests from around the world.
 The creating and sustaining of relationships between small conscientious tour operators such as Ojos Mayas and regional co-operatives like Xyaat is how this ancient culture will continue to thrive in a modern world.

I personally came away with a more significant understanding of the modern day Maya by learning about their sustainable agriculture, medicine, handcrafts and cuisine and would jump at the chance to participate again. I am certainly going to be recommending this experience to our friends and customers. If you would like to experience this for yourself, visit the Ojos Mayas website for more information and to make a reservation. You can also connect with them on Facebook. Don't be surprised if you see me on your tour!

 
I moved to Mexico with my family in 2004 with the hope of offering our children a more global education and world view. Since then, we have traveled through Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, gathering friends and life experiences and learning a lot about ourselves along the way. When we are not out and about exploring, Rob and I own and operate BuyPlaya, a Playa del Carmen real estate company and FurnitureMex. "Life's a Beach" is a catch-all blog where you may find anything from restaurant reviews, to recipes, gardening tips, commentary about expat daily life, local events, information about moving to Mexico and educating children in Playa del Carmen. You can also find me on Facebook, Twitter and Google+.