Life's a Beach | Expat Life in Playa del Carmen : Wildlife, 2010

Ak Lu'um Presented to the Municipal Govt. of Solidaridad as a Featured Eco-Project

Rob Kinnon — Wed, 10 Nov 2010 19:08:00 GMT

On Monday, I was invited to attend a conference with local environmental groups presenting their various projects to the local media and representatives from the Office of Environmental Affairs for the Municipal Government of Solidaridad. Held in the grand auditorium of the Municipal Plaza, six eco initiatives were presented for the consideration of the assembly including Ak Lu'um International School and their 1st annual "Eco-Reto", a challenge for local families to design and build the best eco-friendly toy. Also addressing the group were representatives from the Direccion de Medio Ambiente del H. Ayuntamiente del Municipio de Solidaridad promoting the Riviera Maya's monthly recycling program and a new state of the art landfill project that is now underway (CIMRES), also under the supervision of the Municipality. Other presentations came from the World Wildlife Federation with an ambitious proposal to reduce the carbon footprint of the Riviera Maya travel industry and Moce Yax Cuxtal A.C. with their Living Museum of Ancient Urban Trees. We also heard about an initiative to promote sustainable urban agriculture within the various neighborhoods in the city of Playa del Carmen and the Amigos de Sian Ka'an A.C. spoke about their efforts to save our precious reef system.

I was impressed with the information imparted and the quality of the presentations themselves and hope to receive more information about each of these organizations. Of course, I was in attendance primarily to support Itzel and the Fundacion Ak Lu'um A.C. but I was delighted to see so many other important and viable initiatives in the works!

For more information on what can and is being done to reduce carbon emissions, visit Live the Deal. See what your country has committed to doing to help preserve the environment.

Hacienda Tres Rios Hosts Permaculture Conference

Rob Kinnon — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 16:48:00 GMT

Recently, my pal Mitch and I enrolled in an interesting conference to be held over a weekend at the nearby Hacienda Tres Rios Resort. Having had the good fortune to be a guest at the resort for previous events, I had a feeling that this would be an interesting weekend. Certainly we would be in luxurious accommodations and enjoying fabulous food. Hopefully, we would both come away with some systems for sustainable development and living that we could both apply in the design and building of our new homes in the jungle. As Birdie attends Ak Lu'um International School, the Riviera Maya's only not for profit ecological school, I also hoped that I might bring back some fresh ideas that might be implemented there as well.

We checked into our room early Saturday morning and met the other participants and group leaders who would be accompanying us throughout the conference. First on the agenda, an ice-breaking exercise designed to get us more in tune with our surroundings and ourselves and in the right frame of mind for the events ahead. The Sense Adventure Experience took us, blindfolded, on a tour designed to awaken each of our other senses and break down some of our social defenses. Some people love this tour...others, not so much. Naturally, I have no pictures of this experience but should you find yourself staying at the resort, I would recommend the experience. It takes a few moments to relax and allow yourself to get into the moment but, by the end, you should feel much more alert and aware of everything around you, the perfect state of mind to carry into the conferences ahead.

The weekend was designed to be a grand overview of permaculture, the ideology and the systems. For those participants embarking on a certification process, this weekend builds the foundation on which all other workshops are built and was certified by the Latin American Institute of Permaculture, Ecoaldea Gratitud A.C., and the Ecovillage Network of the Americas. Without a solid understanding of permaculture, past present and future, the various components of the certification will not be as useful or meaningful. The sessions were long and presented in Spanish by Maria Ros, a certified designer for self-sustaining and permaculture human settlements and a representative of the Latin American Ecovillage Bio-Regional Council. Mitch and I, the only non-native Spanish speakers in the room made good use of translation help from Hector Reyes, Maria's partner and founder of Casa Sanarte. The concepts were not terribly complex and having done quite a bit of research on my own, I was pretty familiar with many of the systems already. Still, there was a lot of information to digest. With only nuts, fruits and raisins and herbal tea to hold us over between meals, it was rather exhausting, both mentally and physically. I made good use of my camera, taking pictures of the slides rather than having to copy and translate everything on the spot.

There were almost 20 students in the group, including Mitch and me and it was an interesting mix of people. Each individual had arrived with their own preconceived notions about permaculture and their own unique motivations for attending. We shared the weekend with doctors, teachers, eco-farmers, builders, students and parents. Daniel, at 18 was the youngest and represented the hope of a new generation. At this young age, he is already building his own eco-farm on some land outside of Cancun. I don't know what you were doing when you were 18, but I can tell you the last thing on MY mind was the health of the earth and saving the future of humanity. Vanessa, 23, had completed a bachelors degree in nutrition but became passionate about permaculture and is now traveling around the globe, living and working in villages where she can learn more and put her skills to practical use.

In general, I was struck by the genuine interest and seriousness with which everyone approached the subject at hand and the interesting experiences and questions they brought to the table for discussion. I was not surrounded by tree-hugging long-haired hippy freaks (although I did feel compelled to warn Vanessa of the social stigmas attached to cute blond girls considering dreadlocks). Rather, I looked around the room and saw people not so unlike myself. I was particularly impressed with the depth of experience that Maria was able to share with us and the professional manner in which the information was relayed throughout the sessions. We covered a lot of information including eco-design, bio-construction materials and techniques, sustainable energy resources, heating and cooling systems, composting and organic gardening, the establishment and prerequisites for an eco-village and much, much more. I felt, in the end, that I would be well prepared to pursue more intensive certification workshops in any one of these components of permaculture although my motivation for attending this conference was not the certificate.

During breaks, we were served beautiful and nutritious meals especially designed for our group to have detoxifying effects while nourishing our bodies and minds. During the course, were to be free of all meat, dairy, saturated fats, refined salt and sugar and any chemical preservatives. The meals were vegan and reminded me quickly that my portion control is out of whack. As Rob and I have been giving serious consideration to our diets and lifestyles, it was not a complete shock to my system and I was pleased with most of the meals. I did come to realize how much salt affects my enjoyment of food and will endeavor to decrease my dependence on it as a seasoning and to make use of more sea salt and natural sweeteners in my cooking.

We also were treated to a backstage tour of the Hacienda Tres Rios nursery where the resort horticulturists cultivate many of the indigenous plants that populate the 326 acres of nature park that surround the hotel. When the resort was built great care was taken to not disturb or destroy the mangroves and the hundreds of forms of animal life that call the dense aquatic forest home. Since its inception, Hacienda Tres Rios has been at the forefront of sustainable development and is recognized as a model for eco-tourism both regionally and nationally by Mexican environmental authorities. Current eco-projects include the reforestation of some of the wetlands in Cancun and we were able to see the thousands of small plants ready to be moved to their permanent home. The resort’s nursery has produced more than 80,000 mangrove trees in four years. This year, Hacienda Tres Ríos donated 3,000 mangrove trees to help the Cancun reforestation efforts. This donation represented over 90 percent of the red mangroves planted in the protected areas of the Nichupte Lagoon. Quite impressive.

On the second day of the intensive conference, the group was invited to tour the lush mangroves by kayak. This was a first for many of the participants and navigating the small wobbly crafts through the dense jungle proved to be challenging (and humorous) for some. Once we all got our bearings about us and managed to control our kayaks, the journey through the mangrove proved to be a real highlight of the weekend. With our newly awakened senses, we experienced the mangrove not just with our eyes. I don't think I have ever been anywhere that smelled so ALIVE. We kayaked all the way to the ocean and back and took a break to cool off with a swim and some snorkeling in the natural cenote. Invigorated, we returned to our rooms to quickly change and return to the conference room for the final session of the workshop and the presentation of the diplomas.

Now, after all the notes have been reviewed and the information has been absorbed, do I want to cast off all my worldly belongings and live in an eco-village? Nope. Sorry, I'm not sold on the whole idea of living by consensus. I get it and I understand why for an eco-village to be successful it must be run as such. Still, it is not for me. There is too much U.S. capitalist left in me for that kind of living situation.

So, what did I take away from this weekend that I can apply to my life and our daily activities? Quite a bit actually. While the idea of living in an actual eco-community is not at all appealing, I do see how many of the concepts and systems can be applied to our existing community structures. For example, I think that Ak Lu'um is perfectly poised to incorporate many of the permaculture concepts and systems, not only within its physical facility but in the virtual fabric of the school community. As the sum of our skills and expertise is far greater than that of any individual teacher or parent, why should we not be looking to each other first for support rather than looking outside of the group. If my needs and the needs of our family business can be filled by another Ak Lu'um member, is that not who should receive our patronage first? Can we not make the fibers that connect our community stronger in this way?

The cost for this weekend workshop was 2600 pesos per person which included lodging for one night, the conference, a backstage tour of the plant nurseries, the kayak cenote expedition and all meals. Reasonable by my standards, but still WELL out of reach financially for most people, especially those who would perhaps benefit most from the information provided. It is my hope to develop a relationship with the organizers and in the future identify and/or organize small informal groups that might meet occasionally to learn specific techniques that can be integrated into a family's daily life and routines. Whether it be building a compost bin, starting a small bio-dynamic garden, setting up a rainwater catch system or teaching our children how to recycle we can all do our part to move toward a more sustainable, healthier future.

"Adios y hasta pronto!" from Swiper and Hacienda Tres Rios

Papalote Students Visit Crococun

Rob Kinnon — Sat, 11 Sep 2010 16:47:00 GMT

Unbelievably, somehow, I have managed to spend six years in Playa del Carmen with small children and NEVER managed to visit Crococun. So, when the 1st grade class at El Papalote School solicited chaperones for a field trip to the small eco-zoo and reptile farm, I jumped at the chance. Frankly, I think I was more excited than Cole. So, last week, we piled the students into cars and made the trip 30 minutes north to Puerto Morelos.

Unlike my husband, who has an aversion to all things that crawl on their bellies, I happen to really dig snakes and the like and want my kids to develop a healthy appreciation for them as well. As we are planning to build in the jungle, they are going to need to be able to identify both friend and foe and this gave us all a good chance to take a look at some of the indigenous species that will likely cross our paths.

The residents of the zoo are almost entirely creatures that are found in this area of Mexico. Some were quite familiar to us, like the coatimundi and venado (deer). Others, like the Margay, a small wild cat that resembles an ocelot, were more exotic. The facility was very nearly destroyed by hurricane Gilbert in 1988 but since then, due in no small part to the efforts of conservationists and nature lovers, the zoo has been rebuilt and is now better than ever. More than just a tourist attraction, Crococun is now dedicated to preserving and protecting indigenous species for generations to come.

Las Guacamayas

Besitos

Yellow headed Amazon parrot

The stars of the show

The children were introduced to the juvenile crocs and allowed to hold one.

Next we moved on to the snakes and met this friendly boa. I loved watching the unique reactions of the kids.

This big guy is actually native to Costa Rica

Big beautiful iguana

A rattle snake of some sort

We marveled at this gorgeous Vine snake

....the same color as these bananas

We saw two handsome Xoloitzcuintli, Mexican hairless dogs. You can really imagine their ancestors keeping time with Mayan Kings.

Does every zoo have a Peacock?

On the way to feed the deer, a spider monkey who has voluntarily taken up residence at the zoo stopped by for a visit. Jessica, our guide explained, suffers from some sort of bi-polar disorder. This was a good day and she was eager to show off her new baby and see if we had brought any treats. The baby was still on milk only but she enjoyed the grapes offered by the children.

Next, the children got to wander amongst the deer.

Of course Jessica followed along.

We saw some coatiis

And this elegant Margay

Recreo!!

All the kids had a great day and the grown-ups had fun watching them. The tour, which was conducted in Spanish, lasted about an hour which is plenty of time to make it through the small park but not so long that you feel overheated and dehydrated. Once we had completed the circuit through the zoo and visited all of the inhabitants, the kids had time to sit and eat lunch and enjoy some run-around time in the shaded playground area. If you haven't had a chance to visit Crococun, I would definitely recommend it. With or without children, it makes for a fun activity when you are looking for a break from the beach. The rates are pretty reasonable and the guide is included in the price. Locals with ID receive a 30% discount. Not bad. I think you can see by the looks on the childrens' faces that it was money well spent.

Monkeys in Our Midst

Rob Kinnon — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 14:44:00 GMT

The name aside, when you go for a meal at La Cueva del Chango, one of Playa del Carmen most recognized and best loved restaurants, you don't really expect to be sharing a meal with regional primates. But, that's just what happened this week when Rob, Mitch and I stopped in for lunch. In fact, years ago, there were two spider monkey that lived on the property but they have long gone. So, you can imagine our surprise when this little fellow turned up on the aquifer that surrounds the back garden. He was wearing a collar but was very skittish of human contact. Clearly, at one time, he had been someone's pet who had either escaped or was abandoned. As long as he sticks around this restaurant, he will be well looked after.

This was definitely the highlight of my husband's day!

We have been coming to Cueva del Chango since before we even moved here, six years ago. It had always been the perfect place to bring clients to really get them into the "Playa vibe". Surrounded by jungle and running water, the restaurant is an oasis of calm in the middle of a city that is exploding with modern development. The food is fresh and healthy and a celebration of all the flavors of Mexico. If you haven't managed to find your way there, I highly recommend that you plan at least one meal in this lovely tropical sanctuary.

La Cueva del Chango is located on calle 38 between 5th Ave. and the beach.

Road Trip 2010 - Day 2 - Calakmul to Palenque

Rob Kinnon — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 15:40:00 GMT

Birdie and I rose early this morning, roused by the cacophony of the sounds coming from the jungle around us. After a failed attempt to connect to the internet, we joined the boys for a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit and omelets.

Cole and friend

Breakfast at Puerta Calakmul

Despite my desire to find lodging as close to the ruin site as possible, our hotel was still a good hour and a half from the archeological zone. We twisted and turned our way south, stopping only to snap a few photos of the flora and fauna. Upon reaching the ruins we entered into a good sized parking area which was nearly empty and an attractive reception center, also empty. We were unpleasantly surprised to find no water available for sale, nor were there any printed maps or guides for hire. We made a good mental note of the site map at the entrance and carried on down the path and into the jungle. Having arrived in the morning, we were there at the right time to see dozens of spider monkeys swinging and leaping from tree to tree over head. Near one of the first structures, we happened upon a peccary (a wild pig indigenous to the region) foraging for food in the underbrush and several resplendent oscillated turkeys.

Spider Monkeys

Bromeliads

Oscillated Turkey

Peccary

There are three possible routes to take through the ruins, corta, larga and mediana. For the sake of the children and considering our lack of water we chose the short route, one that would take us past the most significant and dramatic plazas and temples. This is a large site, covering over 70 acres. Most of the area can be accessed one wide, smooth roads, all of which are marked with informative signs along the way.

Calakmul Ruins - Stellae

Structure No.2 in the Main Plaza

About an hour and a half into the tour, halfway up the largest structure, no. 2, Cole blew out a flip flop. This is when we realized that there are no signs for the “salida”, no way to determine which way was out! There are no site maps posted past the entrance, no markers to tell you “You are here”, so we went back out the way we came in, quite a hike for a little boy with no shoes.

In general, Calakmul is a beautiful archeological site whose significance cannot be disputed. If you are planning to visit these ruins, you will find limited information about how to best plan your trip. You may want to keep these tips in mind.

· The ruin site of Calakmul is one and a half hours from the nearest hotel and a full two hours from the nearest town, Xpujil.

· If coming from the east, be sure to gas up in Xpujil and buy plenty of water. The next Pemex is in Escarcega and no water is available for sale at the ruin site.

· Print up a map of the ruin site before you embark on your trip or take a photo of the site map at the entrance for reference.

· Anyone who is not fit or up for walking a distance may want to reconsider this site.

· There are no guides for hire onsite. Make the appropriate arrangements at your hotel.

Despite the flip flop debacle, we did manage to see and enjoy most of the site. On the drive back out to the highway, we blew out a tire. Thankfully, a nice family, also returning from the ruins, stopped to help us, a welcome helping hand in the heat of the now high midday sun. We backtracked to Xpujil to gas up, buy water and enjoy a quick and delicious lunch of pollo asado before continuing on to our next stop.

Pollo Asado

About a half hour before Escarcega, we slowed down to pass through a small village where an enormous crowd had gathered along the roadside. What appeared at first to be a festival of some kind, perhaps in celebration of Palm Sunday, turned out to be a horse race. Super chido! Of course, we stopped to join in the fun.

Caballero

Heading for the starting line

The winner

Back on the road, night falling fast around us, we stocked up on cervezas for the night and headed southwest, through Tabasco, into Chiapas and finally to our resting place for the evening, El Panchan at the entrance to the archeological zone of Palenque. El Panchan is a lively compound with carious lodging options (none of which my husband found even remotely acceptable) and a wonderful bar and restaurant onsite, tucked into the lush, tropical jungle. The band was fired up and everyone was dancing up a storm when we arrived.

El Panchan Palenque

We had a fabulous and economical dinner and then tucked ourselves into bed, tired from a long day on the road and looking forward to the next leg of our adventure.

Road Trip 2010 - Day 1 - Playa del Carmen to Calakmul

Rob Kinnon — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 17:14:00 GMT

Welcome to the Kinnon Family Road Trip 2010! Day 1 of our itinerary brought us from Playa del Carmen to Calakmul, a ruin site of great cultural significance in the Classic Period, located in the state of Campeche. We made great time moving south on 307, the same road that carried us to Belize in 2008 and then Guatemala in 2009. As expected, as every year, we noted more and more construction, particularly in Tulum and Bacalar. The turnoff toward Escarcega took us into new territory but through a countryside that remained familiar. The well kept, wide two lane highway stretched out long and straight, through acres and acres of small farms and sugarcane plantations. While this kind of ride bores my husband to tears, I enjoy trying to make out what crops are being cultivated by the campesinos and what also seems to grow wild in the fields along the road.

No video games. No DVDs. Just books and a lot of imagination.

The ruins at Rio Bec

This is an area far more dependent on agriculture then the Riviera Maya. One can finds numerous breeds of cattle, horses, sheep, goats and all manner of poultry being raised next to wide tracts of corn and sugar cane. Fruit bearing trees are plentiful and prolific, the ground often littered with rotting citrus fruit, a pleasant snack for wandering livestock. The wide, flat farmlands slowly gave way to gently rolling hills and soon we arrived at our destination, the eco-resort, Puerta Calakmul.

Our cabana at Puerta Calakmul

The kids love those mosquito nets.

Orchids everywhere!

We checked in quickly to our accommodations, a rustic screened in cabana in the jungle with two matrimonial sized beds draped with elegant mosquito netting. Dropping off our belongings and changing into appropriate shoes, we immediately headed out on our first excursion. Located about 5 minutes drive back east toward the pueblo of Xpujil, is an enormous cave system that is home to millions of bats. Every evening at the same time, the bats pour out of these caverns in search of food.

On the edge of the cavern

We arrived in time to witness this amazing spectacle along with some fellow guests and a handful of students armed with video camera and tripod. Everyone was mesmerized as the bats flooded out of the cave like a thick black ribbon of smoke. The bats spiraled, en mass, around and around, slowly rising up and out of the gulley and into the night sky. We stayed for over 20 minutes and still the bats kept coming. It was a real Animal Planet moment and one we are not likely to forget.

It was very hard to capture the bats on film but we will post a video when we get back.

We returned to our hotel after dark and enjoyed a nice dinner of chicken fajitas. Pretty pedestrian fare by our standards but tasty and good enough to fill our bellies before heading off to bed. An early night for us all as we plan to tour the ruins of Calakmul in the morning.

We found no internet in this remote location, nor would we until San Cristobal.

More to come......