Life's a Beach | Expat Life in Playa del Carmen : Good Eats

Kinnon Family Trip Report 2013 - PUJOL

Rob Kinnon — Sat, 18 May 2013 14:00:00 GMT

One of the things that first attracted me to Rob when I was first dating him was his interest and appreciation of good food, good wine and quality spirits. At the time, I was selling wine for a very nice importer/distributor so we always had plenty of great wine on hand to pair with delicious food with my favorite restaurant accounts! Throughout our almost 15 years together, and especially during our travels, we have always enjoyed seeking out not just the best restaurants but also the best representations of regional food and drink. We are both adventurous eaters and up for trying anything and everything.

About three years ago, Rob decided to get serious about losing the weight we had packed onto him over a decade of unbridled dining. A year and a half ago, we both made the choice to go pescaterian, cutting out all beef, chicken and pork. Throughout the process, he has lost over 150 pounds and his cardiologist refers to him as his dream patient....almost....we still have those cigarettes to conquer.

So, we look good and feel good. But what about our beloved dining adventures? What about all those fabulous tasting menus with perfectly seared fois gras and unctuous pork belly. What about the translucent strips of carpaccio and sizzling bones oozing with marrow? Would we need to eschew our culinary capers in order to stay on the healthy straight and narrow? Not really. While we have chosen a meat-free path it doesn't mean our palates need to suffer for it! What we have found is that the better restaurants and the more innovative chefs seem to be leaning in the same direction we are. It seems that more and more often, menu options feature wild fish and shellfish or are meat-free altogether so we don't feel like we are missing out at all! Such was the case when we visited Pujol in Mexico City.

Rated the top restaurant in the city, #1 in the country and recently rising to the rank of #17 on the San Perregrino list of the best restaurants in the world, Pujol came up time and time again in my research and again when I took my search to the court of public opinion on Facebook. More than a few of my trusted foodie friends told me that a trip to Pujol was a must if we were planning to fine in Mexico City. The only problem? We would be dining with the kids. Did I want to spend 100 usd a head on a meal that they may not appreciate or even enjoy?

Yes. Yes I do!

Our taxi river had never heard of Pujol and even with the complete street address he had trouble finding the small modern building that houses the restaurant. The sleek facade is unassuming, save the smartly dressed valets out front who came running to greet us. Inside, we were ushered past a small bar into a dimly lit, low ceilinged dining room. It was much smaller than I had expected, about the size of a gentlemen-only lounge at a country club. The walls are painted a charcoal gray. Stretched along one wall is a row of banquet seating. The rest of the room is dotted with stand alone white table-clothed tables, each lit from above a singular spot light creating dining "islands" for each party. It was sleek and elegant and comfortably cosmopolitan!

At the time of our visit, there were two dining options: Chef Enrique Olvera's ten course tasting menu and a prix fixe four course menu with several options for each course. Not wanting the kids to sit through a 2 1/2 hour meal, we chose the prix fixe option (890 mn p/p) which also allowed me to help Cole (our less adventurous eater) to find things he might like. Cat was, of course, thrilled to be there and quickly had all the servers fawning all over her suggesting elegant "mocktails" and menu selections that she might enjoy.

Rob and I stuck to the vegetarian and seafood options while the kids had some meat sprinkled into their meals. In this atmosphere, I did feel a little self-conscious even though I was only using the camera on my iphone. I don't think I got pictures of everything but this should give you a pretty good idea of what to expect at Pujol.

The first amuse bouche - paper-thin discs of avocado sandwiching chia seeds and served with a warm savory corn "tea".

Salsa

Sal

Cat enjoying her mocktail!

The second amuse bouche - a play on a popular Mexican street food - Roasted baby corn with mayonnaise and chile served out of a smoking gourd.

Sea bass ceviche taco with black bean purée and crispy fish skin, served on a corn tortilla laminated with "hoja santa".

Watercress salad with nopales and goat cheese.

Fried frog's legs with chayote slaw, dollops of cauliflower purée, and a poblano chili paste.

Herbed butter

Fresh baked bread.

Champagne for me!

Cole really enjoyed the Yucatecan "lechon" with shaved cauliflower, green olives and three sauces; almond, raisin-cumin mole, and tamarind.

Fluffy fried tortilla encasing a soft-boiled egg, roasted salsa, and puréed beans.

Guava ice cream.

The "Piñata"! A clear sugar sphere filled with orange supreme, guava cream, meringue and peanut cookie crumble.

Fresh fruits with artisanal cheeses and raw organic honey.

Chocolate mousse flavored with Xtabentún and topped with an orange creme.

I've read a couple of reviews on TA since we returned from our trip and many of them call out the waitstaff as pretentious and impatient. Others claimed their service was overly intrusive. Some called it "odd". I found just the opposite. Despite the fact that we were the only foreigners in the restaurant, we were clearly under-dressed and two of our party were under the age of 12, I found our service to be spot on. The courses were timed properly and served at the correct temperature. We were never left with empty drinks or plates. Silverware was replaced...never simply set aside for the next course. Napkins were promptly refolded during trips to the restroom. It all worked like a well-oiled machine. Everyone was smiley and nice, especially to our children.

My only complaint is that I would like like to have had a beverage - wine, mezcal, champagne, agua fresca - something thoughtfully paired with each course. I'm not talking about a full pour, just a little something that the Chef has chosen to best accompany each offering. I would have been happy to pay an additional charge for this option rather than having to choose for myself from their extensive beverage menu. Otherwise, I very much enjoyed my food and my dining experience. The food was well conceived and perfectly executed. With two starters sent out to warm up our palates and the complimentary deserts, I feel like the price was well justified. Best of all, it tasted good! Rob and I are definitely looking forward to trying the full tasting menu the next time we have an opportunity to be in Mexico City on our own. (Shhh. Don't tell Cat.)

Notes on Napkins - A New Website for Playa Foodies!

Rob Kinnon — Sun, 03 Feb 2013 11:00:00 GMT

Taking the time to enjoy local cuisine on your vacation gives you a greater understanding and appreciation for the culture of the country you're visiting. Food is one of the best ways for people to interact across cultural divides and discover a commonality. The Riviera Maya is unique to other destinations in Mexico in that its cuisine is a cacophony of flavors and ingredients brought in from all across Mexico and from around the globe. Here you can find everything from Yucatecan cochinita pibil to Oaxacan mole to Venezuelan arepas, Indian tika masala, Italian pizza, Spanish tapas, crepes, thai, sushi, and more!

How will you decide where to eat? How will you know what and where all the choices are? A new website will help you navigate through the culinary cornucopia that Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya has to offer. On Playa Food can search alphabetically, by price, cuisine and location. You can find the restaurant on a map and even leave a rating and a review to help future diners! Check it out at http://www.PlayaFood.com.

Notes on Napkins - Breakfast is Served at Co.Cos Cocina!!

Rob Kinnon — Wed, 05 Dec 2012 11:15:00 GMT

Coty Villareal has made a quite a splash in our culinary community since beginning her top notch cooking classes to Playa del Carmen. This week Coty invited her friends and supporters for an Open House to inaugurate the new "Breakfast and Deli" at Co.Cos Cocina Cosmopolita where she will be serving breakfast and lunch. The casual bistro dining space is set up in front of the cooking "theatre", spilling out onto the covered terrace surrounding the impressive Aldea Thai complex.

If you haven't participated in one of Coty's cooking classes, I highly recommend you do so. Those of you who have enjoyed her classes already and love her cuisine will be happy to know that Co.Cos will now be open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday from 8:00am - 4:30pm.

For the Open House, Coty and her team set out some light fare to give us all a small taste of what we can expect from her deli lunch menu. Everything was fresh and full of flavor and the prices are very reasonable. I see no reason why this new aspect to her already booming business should not be an overwhelming success!

Chicken Caesar Sandwich on whole grain bread with Parmesan cheese and Caesar dressing

Marinated Tuna on freshly grilled bread with cucumber, avocado, sprouts and mango-mint sauce

Sopa de Limon

Shrimp Salad with jicama, avocado, mango and tamarind dressing

Co.Cos Cocina Cosmopolita is located on Avenida Cozumel in the Aldea Thai resort complex in Playa del Carmen. For more information about the new cafe, the cooking school or catering services you can contact Coty at info@cookinplaya.com or 984-803-0743.

I moved to Mexico with my family in 2004 with the hope of offering our children a more global education and world view. Since then, we have traveled through Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, gathering friends and life experiences and learning a lot about ourselves along the way. When we are not out and about exploring, Rob and I own and operate BuyPlaya, a Playa del Carmen real estate company and FurnitureMex. "Life's a Beach" is a catch-all blog where you may find anything from restaurant reviews, to recipes, gardening tips, commentary about expat daily life, local events, information about moving to Mexico and educating children in Playa del Carmen. You can also find me on Facebook, Twitter and Google+.

UNO to Go! Celebrates with a Grand Inaugural Party!

Rob Kinnon — Sun, 11 Nov 2012 11:19:00 GMT

Friday night, Susan de Lima and her team opened the doors of UNO to Go for their long awaited Grand Inauguration Party. Her chic UNO sign could be seen for blocks on all sides, lighting up the Colosio at the new gourmet deli on 5th and 48th, a new base of operations UNO Events & Catering. Nearly 100 people turned up to check out Susan's latest endeavor and to celebrate the success of a friend and fellow expat! Cameras were flashing everywhere as guests mingled and chatted and enjoyed the menu offerings for the evening paired with hand selected wines.

Rob and I have always been a big fan of Susan's catering and personal Chef services. It is so nice to know you have someone as professional and creative as Susan and her Chefs to recommend to our friends and customers. We can always rest assured that we will hear rave reviews about her food and event planning services! As a matter of fact, a few people who we have referred to Susan over the years were in attendance on Friday night, lined up to congratulate her in person.

Susan had a chance to show off some of her most popular hors d'oevres as well as a few of her new culinary creations. There was a little something for everyone, including the considerable number of vegetarians and vegans in the group. It was all delicious and really showcased the fresh healthy cuisine that Susan is known for. Inside, the cold case was stocked up with perfectly seared sesame tuna, quiche, vegetarian calzones, fresh crisp salads, a large variety of dips and sauces and Susan's own gourmet aguas frescas.

A small sign in the deli case announced the services of a certified holistic nutritional planner and eating plans. Each meal will come with a complete nutritional analysis and be prepared by Susan and her Chefs in the UNO To Go kitchen on a daily basis or as needed. As Playa del Carmen grows, it seems more and more people arrive who are diabetic or suffer with food allergies or gluten sensitivities. There are others who are looking for guidance with a weight loss plan or require meals to support an established weight loss plan like WeightWatchers. This nutritional counseling is going to be a great resource and UNO to Go makes it all manageable!

What kinds of cuisine can you expect to find at UNO To Go? Asian, Mexican, Indian, Italian, Caribbean, Vegetarian, Vegan and meals to accommodate special dietary needs.

When will UNO To Go be open? Monday - Saturday from 1pm - 5pm. Following the current food truck trend, a certain amount of meals will be created every day. When they're gone, they're gone so don't wait until the last minute if you are hoping to grab dinner to go!

Where is UNO To Go located? The new shop is located on 5th Avenue and 48th street. A word to the wise: Drivers may no longer turn north onto 5th Avenue from CTM. You must head north on 10th and swing back down to 5th at Calle 50. There is plenty of on-street parking near the new store.

How will you find out what is on the UNO To GO daily menu? The daily menu is announced via email and various social media channels, so be sure to follow UNO To Go on Facebook!

If you would like to make a special menu request or would like to inquire about chef/catering services, call Susan at 984 129 8902 or shoot her an email at susan@unoevents.com. UNO Events & Catering will also be a participant at Taste of Playa 2012 so be sure to stop by their table and say "hola"!

2013 Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival Scheduled for March 14 - 17

Rob Kinnon — Tue, 24 Jul 2012 19:42:00 GMT

El Dorado Spa Resorts & Hotels, an all-inclusive beachfront resort company in the Riviera Maya, Mexico, announced Wednesday that it has been selected as official host hotel of the Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival (CRMWFF). Recognized by the CRMWFF for its culinary commitment, El Dorado Royale will host celebrity chefs, notables and VIPs as well as the celebrity chef cooking demonstrations and a series of wine tastings during the event, taking place March 14 - 17, 2013.

“We are thrilled to name El Dorado Royale host hotel of next year’s Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival,” said David Amar, founder of the Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival, in a written release. “The resort, which affords guests the best in food and service as a part of its Gourmet Inclusive vacations, aligns perfectly with our commitment to provide an unforgettable gastronomic experience. Not only does El Dorado Royale offer gourmet a la carte meals, premium wine selections, sommeliers at every restaurant, chef’s tables and 24-hour service, it is also home to the destination’s largest Greenhouse, a 100,000 square-foot facility that impresses locals, discerning gourmands and world-class chefs alike.”

The 2013 Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival will build off last year’s wonderfully successful fete, which showcased 30 of the best chefs in the Americas and attracted more than 3,000 guests. As a part of the 2012 event, Azul Sensatori Hotel – a sister property of El Dorado Royale – hosted VIPs and top sponsors at Le Chique for a one-of-a-kind 12-course “Author’s Dinner.” Created by chef Jonatan Gomez Luna, one of Ferran Adrià’s disciples who develops his own creative cuisine using local ingredients, the “Author’s Dinner” beautifully exemplifies the elevated experience offered with any Gourmet Inclusive vacation.

Visit www.karismahotels.com for more information about the event and the venue.
Source: http://www.travelagentcentral.com/

Good Eats - Guanabana (Soursop)

Rob Kinnon — Sat, 07 Jul 2012 19:35:00 GMT

A few days ago, on our drive back from Belize, I spotted these unfortunate looking fruit growing on a large tree in Limones. I immediately recognized the fruit as Guanabana or Soursop has been getting a lot of facetime recently on the internet, touted by many for its possible cancer curing/inhibiting qualities. I'm not sure about all that (and I can only imagine how much of this one would need to eat to see such miraculous results) but I was curious about it and so, when I found them the next day in our local Chedraui, I was quick to find a ripe on to bring home and try. They are not much to look at and even Birdie, an equal opportunity eater, gave me the stink eye when I first pulled it out of my grocery sack.

The Guanabana is a fruit native to Mexico, Cuba, Central America, the Caribbean and northern South America. The speckled skin has a diamond pattern, each diamond surrounding a small soft spine. The skin is dark-green in the immature fruit, becoming slightly yellowish-green as it ripens. Ripe fruit should be soft enough to yield to slight pressure. Having reached this stage, the fruit can be kept refrigerated 2 or 3 days longer. Like a banana, the skin will blacken and become unsightly but inside, the flesh is unspoiled and tasty.

In Mexico, it is a fairly common fruit, often used for dessert or as an "agua fesca". Guanabana ice cream and fruit bars are also very popular. The white interior pulp is studded with many large, smooth seeds, and pockets of soft flesh are bounded by fibrous but edible membranes. The flesh is juicy, almost custardy and sweet tasting. The flesh is an excellent source of Calcium, Folate, Iron, Potassium, Sodium and Vitamins B and C.

To eat Guanabana, I cut the fruit vertically into two halves. Then I cut the two halves into watermelon-like slices. You could also scoop out the soft flesh with a tablespoon. I found the seeds pop out easy either by picking them out by hand or using the "watermelon method"...spitting. Do not eat the skin or seeds.

It was a split decision in our house with the boys both sort of indifferent to the flavor and texture while Birdie and I both enjoyed it a lot. It's not the easiest fruit to eat but, unlike Tuna, Guayaba and Maracuya, the seeds are very easy to manage. I was able to extract about 25 seeds which I cleaned and dried and plan to plant. I am told the tree is fast growing and should bear fruit in 3-5 years. We'll see!

Good Eats at Home: Pizzettas Enfrijoladas

Rob Kinnon — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 00:29:00 GMT

As many of our loyal "Life's a Beach" readers will know (because they also follow me on Facebook) Rob and I are in a "crazy vegetarian phase". We have eaten no beef, chicken or pork since New Years. The good news is, we have never looked or felt better. We have had no trouble at all finding great vegetarian dining-out options and, as you all know, good grains, fruits and veggies are practically free here in Mexico. The bad news is, it's a lot more work for me to put together tasty interesting meat-free meals night after night when we dine at home....which is most of the time. The challenge is not coming up with meatless meals. The challenge is coming up with meatless meals that are healthy and packed with important nutrients. Pasta and pizza are good for a night or two a week but I'm really trying to manage our intake of refined carbs and be more creative with the limited time I have.

One thing I always keep in the house is a bean dip of some kind. On Mondays, I whip up a big batch of hummus or black bean dip to keep in the fridge for snacks. Tonight, the black bean dip doubles as the sauce for a dish I'm going to call Pizzettas Enfrijoladas. They are super easy to make and can make use of whatever combination of veggies you like which is perfect for the kids. Rob likes his with the cheese and corn hot and the rest of the toppings raw. I pile everything on at once and shred a bit of spicy arugula on top when it comes out of the oven. These are also great to bring to parties as an hors d'oeuvre. Here's how we made ours last night.

Pizzettas Enfrijoladas

Flour Tortillas
Simple Black Bean Dip (recipe below)
Shredded Manchego Cheese - (or any kind you like)
Frozen Corn - thawed
Red Onion - thinly sliced
Zucchini - thinly sliced
Red Bell Pepper - thinly sliced
Scallions - thinly sliced
Arugula - torn

Simple Black Bean Dip

3 cups Black Beans - cooked
1 small can Salsa Casera
1 tsp. Cumin

Combine all in a Cuisinart or blender and process until smooth. In a sealed container, this will keep nicely in the fridge for a week and can easily be jazzed up with whatever you like.

For the Pizzettas: Turn on your broiler. Spread a generous layer of black bean dip on a tortilla. Top with a second tortilla. Distribute cheese on top of the second tortilla. Top with frozen corn and whatever veggies appeal to you. Arrange Pizzettas on a cookie sheet and broil for 5 minutes until the cheese is bubbly and the edges of the tortillas are starting to crisp. Transfer to a cutting board, allow to cool slightly and cut into quarters. Allow at least 2 full Pizzettas per person. Serve with a nice green salad.

Best BBQ in San Pedro? Estel's on the Beach!

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 18:20:00 GMT

There is a lot of really good food in Belize. Off the top of my head, some of my most fondly remembered meals have been served up at Hannah's in San Ignacio, El Fogon in San Pedro and Miss Robina's roadside lean-to in Burrell Boom! We have tried lots of eateries on the island, with the expected mixed reviews but there is one place we return to time and time again; Estel's Dine by the Sea. Breakfast in San Pedro for our family always means Estel's. While I am usually keen on hunting out hidden gems, the out of the way places overlooked by the typical tourist, sometimes the best loved, highly trafficked places live up to their reputation and popularity. Estel's is just that kind of place!

This Caribbean style restaurant has been welcoming in hungry guests for years in this colorful rustic conch shack on the beach. We have tried out a few other local spots but keep coming back to Estella and Charles Worthington's place on the beach in downtown San Pedro. An all-day breakfast menu certainly is a draw as, after a long night of rum punch and bell ringing at Pedro's, it's hard to know for sure when breakfast might seem like a reasonable idea! Patrons can choose from a dizzying array of menu options all listed on the giant chalkboard propped up against the back wall by the register. Eggs as you like them, pancakes, fry-jacks, cinnamon buns, breakfast burritos...anything and everything you can imagine comes piping hot out of their tiny kitchen!

A full bar with outstanding (and very potent) house made sangria and dozens of other tropical beverages is another plus! Our kids enjoy the melon smoothies and watermelon juice while I generally go straight for the Bloody Mary's! While breakfast is almost always the order of the day, Charles and his crew serve up a full lunch menu with Belizean favorites including a killer stew chicken with rice and beans and, as I discovered this week, the most amazing BBQ on the island!

Not too smoky, not too sweet. Estel's has it just right and if you want it, you may want to come early (and wait patiently) or order in advance! Hovering over his gigantic cast iron barrel grill, Charles can be found for the good part of every morning carefully maintaining the right temperature, moving food from hot spot to hot spot, basting, turning, basting again until it is just right.

You can choose from ribs (my favorite) chicken and thick juicy pork chops or a combination. He's got all the customary sides to choose from as well: rice and beans, potato salad, baked beans, coleslaw and french fries. I can assure you it is worth the wait. The quality of the meats is top notch and the sauce (a highly guarded secret) is mouthwatering!

Aside from the delicious food, the powerful drinks and pleasant service, my favorite thing about a trip to Estel's is Charles' hospitality. His clientele is always as nice mix of locals and tourists and all are greeted with a smile like old friends. If you travel to San Pedro, it is unlikely that you will pass your time here without someone pointing you in the direction of Estel's for a great meal with a great view. Be sure to stop in, sick your toes in the sand and tell Charles that Michele and Big Rob from Playa sent you!

Kaxapa Factory Brings Venezuelan Food to Playa del Carmen

Rob Kinnon — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:26:00 GMT

A few days ago, Rob and Kate and I were invited to a new place owned by the family of our newest team member, Moises. His family is from Venezuela and they have brought all their favorite family recipes here with them to Playa del Carmen. Kaxapa Factory, is a charming little bistro serving typical dishes of Venezuela and vegetarian versions of this cuisine! They are able to use ingredients from Mexico to recreate the flavor profiles of Venezuela in a unique way creating dishes with a flavor profile unlike any other we have come across in this region of Mexico. The dishes lean toward the sweet side due to the use of corn and ripe platanos. Missing are the ubiquitous wedges of lime and pico de gallo that we see so often accompanying our regional cuisine.

The name Kaxapa is a Mayan interpretation of the word "cachapa". A cachapa is a soft pancake of sweet tender ground corn served folded over a filling. Much like in an omelet, the fillings can vary according to your taste and there is certainly something for everyone. The dish can even be made vegan, stuffed with sauteed vegetables and tofu, wok fried or grilled. Rob had his with shredded beef, chicken and cheese and loved it!

This tiny restaurant is owned and operated by one family. Proud patriarch Ramon Perez single-handedly attends to the front of house while Vilma, Moises and Naicel are hard at work in the small open air kitchen. All dishes are cooked to order, with fresh ingredients and can be adjusted to many dietary preferences and restrictions. Ramon is such a gratious host and excitied to be able to explain all of the dishes to his guests.

The menu is small and features dishes that are typical in Venezuelan homes and family eateries. One such dish is the "arepa". This is like a little cornmeal muffin which can be filled with shredded beef, chicken, vegetables, tofu, beans and/or cheese. In Venezuela the most popular interpretation of this dish is the "reina pepiada" which is filled with cream cheese, chicken and a touch of mayonnaise and avocado.

One of the most popular menu items at Kaxapa Factory is the "patacón", an unusual "sandwich" made with green plantains, mashed and fried and used in place of the bread, then filled with chicken, beef or vegetables, on a bed of organic lettuce topped with a special house-made dressing. We ordered one of these to split between the three of us and it was delicious and filling! Kate does not eat cheese and I was surprised how well the substitution of warm melty tofu worked in its place.

The restaurant does not have a liquor license but the special drinks are delicious. The house drinks, made with natural fruit juices such as passion fruit and lime, are like those typically served in Venezuelan homes and eateries. The flavors are bright and refreshing and perfect for the climate of Playa del Carmen. If you are looking to satisfy your sweet tooth, every day they have home made corn or banana muffins that can be served warm with ice cream! 70% of the produce and ingredients used in the restaurant are from organic sources so even when you feel like you are indulging, you are still eating good honest food.

Every day there is a special meal which includes the soup of the day, a main dish and a beverage all for just $75 pesos. I tried the vegetarian lentil soup and it was just delicious. The restaurant strives to be as environmentally responsible as possible. Every effort is made to reduce waste, recyclable materials are separated and only biodegradable disposable items are used for take-out containers, drinking straws, napkins etc. They have found that their environmentally friendly practices are appreciated by their guests. Inside, they also offer some interesting organic and naturally made products and handcrafts.

We really enjoyed our meal, the family that runs the restaurant could not be more inviting and are looking forward to going back to try more of their traditional dishes. If you're tired of eating the same thing, try something different made with good fresh ingredients and a lot of love. Kaxapizate!

Kaxapa Factory Deli and ECO Store can be found on Contituyentes between 10th and 15th. For more information and menu updates visit the Kaxapa Factory Facebook Page.

Good Eats at Home: Agua de Pepino con Jengibre

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:08:00 GMT

Surprise, surprise. It is summer in Playa del Carmen and it's hot. According to the status updates in my Facebook news feed, it is not as hot as the summer our friends and family are experiencing in the northeastern United States, so I will try not to minge and complain too much. After 7 years living on the Riviera Maya, we have actually become quite acclimated to hot and sticky weather and have a wide variety of coping techniques to get through the occasional scorcher. Because we are all out working, playing and exercising in the heat, staying hydrated is always a top priority.

We have made huge strides over the past year to focus on our health and and quality of life and so, I do my best to avoid "sports drinks" and powdered drink mixes whenever possible. At home, I have been experimenting with different "agua de frutas" (literally translated as fruit waters) to keep our thirsts quenched. "Agua de frutas" or "agua de sabores" can be found in every restaurant, regardless of style or size, all across Mexico. A typical "comida corida" will come with your choice of "agua del dia" served in a pitcher to share. Aguas de jamaica, horchata, tamarindo and sandia have become very familiar to us over the years.

Over the past few weeks I have made a point of making my own "agua de casa" with the multitude of inexpensive fresh fruits we have to choose from in DAC and the grocery stores. I have had good luck with cucumber-lime, strawberry-mint and guayaba-mango to name a few. One of my favorites is this one, cucumber-ginger. It's easy to make and delicious and has to be better for you than Gatorade.

Agua de Pepino-jengibre

1 large cucumber - peeled and cut into chunks
2" ginger root - cut into chunks
Juice of 2 limes
2 liters of water
1/2 cup sugar
1/8 tsp. salt

Put the cucumber chunks into a blender.
Cover with water to 1 inch below the rim and blend until completely smooth.
Pour through a strainer into a large pitcher, pressing softly on the solids.
Clean the strainer.
Put the ginger chunks and lime juice into the blender.
Cover with water to 1 inch below the rim and blend until smooth.
Pour through the strainer into the pitcher with the cucumber water.
Add in the sugar and salt and stir until completely dissolved.
Refrigerate.

When chilled, stir and serve over ice!

If you have any favorite fruit waters or fun beverage combinations, please share them with me!

Good Eats at Home: Sangrita Anyone?

Rob Kinnon — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 13:00:00 GMT

In my opinion (and on this blog it is really the only one that matters) the best way to really enjoy a top quality tequila is with Sangrita as an accompaniment. Sangrita, literally, means "little blood" and is the traditional aperitif enjoyed with a good tequila. It is served on the side (mixed together,this is known as a "Vampira") and is sipped alternately as a chaser to sooth the fire of the booze. Since moving to Mexico five years ago, I have had the opportunity to try many wonderful tequilas with just as many wonderful (and some not so wonderful) variations on Sangrita. While you can find it pre-made and bottled in the grocery stores, no self respecting bartender in Mexico will serve the stuff nor do I recommend you drink it.A good bartender will have his own well-guarded secret recipe, that may have been passed down from generation to generation.

One evening, at our house in Mystic, Connecticut, a few months before we made the big move to Playa del Carmen, Rob and I cracked open a bottle of Patron Silver and went to work concocting the perfect Sangrita. In all honesty, I have no idea how I was able to keep track of all the variations but when I came to my senses the next morning (or was it afternoon) the chicken scratch that remained in my notebook revealed a damn good house-made Sangrita recipe, one that can just as easily be made in your home kitchen as it can behind the bar in your preferred Mexican watering hole.

2 cups tomato juice
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
2 tsp. Tabasco sauce
3 tsp. minced onion
8 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. seasoned salt
2 tsp. celery salt

Combine ingredients, shake well, strain, chill and serve cold with shots of good tequila. In the end, Sangrita should resemble blood, and a dash of grenadine, if you have it on hand, will do the trick. Sangrita can and should be made to suit your particular taste. It can be made quite spicy or, if you like it a bit sweeter, add a bit of grenadine syrup or more orange juice. Then settle in with friends and a selection of your favorite tequilas and enjoy an authentic Mexican experience!

Hechizo - Culinary Enchantment in Tulum

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 05 May 2008 17:47:00 GMT

Tucked away at the southern end of Tulum's world famous beaches, perched on the edge of the Sian Kaan biosphere, the more intrepid traveler will find Hechizo, a restaurant certain to cast a powerful spell on even the most discriminating diner. On a lush oceanfront parcel known as Rancho San Eric, Chef Stefan Schober and his wife and pastry chef, H ui have created out of their collective imaginations a remarkable dining experience unparalleled in all the Riviera Maya. Stefan, born to Austrian parents and raised in Mexico City, met H ui while they were both working in the world class kitchen of the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Singapore and, eventually, brought her back to Mexico, to the beaches of his childhood. The restaurant is of their own design and sits amidst tropical palms and flowering plants on the property owned by Stefan's parents. Although, on good advisement from local message boards, we scouted out the location in advance in the light of day, our 8:30pm reservation would still bring us crawling at a snail's pace down the dusty Boca Paila road in the pitch blackness, eyes pealed for the small sign marking the entrance. Under a blanket of a billion stars, a long winding path, dimly lit by conch shell luminaries, brings you to a small walkover bridge spanning a delightful man-made pond and its colorful aquatic inhabitants. The dining room itself, punctuated by an enormous fresh water aquarium, is rather sparse in appearance. The table arrangements are all different but each has a distinct asian influence, perhaps a reflection of H ui's heritage or of the couple's time spent together in the East. Each element of the decor has been carefully selected and the tables set well apart from one another to ensure an intimate experience for each party.

There are no printed menus, save one, a list of available wines and spirits. Instead, Chef Stefan kneels at each table and regales his guests with his offerings for the evening. Although, it is clear given Stefan's extensive training at the Culinary Institute of Austria, that each dish has been masterfully orchestrated, he will let you know that ingredients and preparation can be "open for negotiation". I was disappointed when the young chef rebuffed my invitation to simply present us whatever dishes were to his particular liking but we had no trouble making our selections from the 5 or 6 starters and entrees prepared for this evening's guests.

An "amuse bouche" of fresh mozzarella dressed with extra virgin olive oil and cracked black pepper, topped with a marinated tomato and basil salad.

Mild Mexican goat cheese served atop a crisp, juicy rectangle of seedless watermelon on a lightly dressed bed of watercress and sprinkled with toasted pine nuts and a sweet balsamic reduction. This is Chef Stefan's signature appetizer and with good reason. The creaminess of the goat cheese, the crisp sweetness of the watermelon and the peppery bite of the watercress all playfully meld together without losing their individual attributes. It's a remarkable combination.

Sweet and savory. Oven roasted beets topped with supremes of fresh manadarin orange, watercress and a generous slice of Danish blue cheese all drizzled with the sweet balsamic reduction. This is where Stefan shows his maturity as a chef. Rather than preparing dozens of sauces in an effort to dazzle diners with an extensive repertoire, he focuses on using the finest, freshest local ingredients, presenting them simply in a variety of settings, each meticulously designed to show off both flavors and textures.

Seated within view of the kitchen, we could observe the chef in his natural habitat, testing temperatures, tasting and re-tasting every sauce, every dressing before it went in front of the guests. This attention to detail and relentless pursuit of perfection seems certainly a result of his strict European culinary training and his Austrian heritage. I would be remiss if I did not call attention to the servers who are among the best I have ever seen and inarguably complete the most professional restaurant staff in this region. The timing from the kitchen was impeccable and the waiters worked together seamlessly, each movement deliberate and purposeful yet unobtrusive.

Roasted sea bass perched on a bed of wilted chaya and oven roasted potato all dressed with a dollop of truffle cream was my entree of choice. The silky smoothness of the truffle cream was a perfect enhancement for the mild, moist sea bass. The sauteed chaya, a spinach-like green had just the slightest twang of acidity, perfect to cut through the fatty goodness of the fish. My husband chose the lamb osso buco which was cooked to perfection and slid off the bone with just the slightest prodding. Full of flavor from a braising liquid made of only the finest ingredients, the lamb was succulent and tender and served with simple elegance in a large white ceramic bowl with creamy mashed potatoes laced with nutmeg as an accompaniment.

Out on a brief leave, celebrating the recent birth of their second child, H ui was not in the restaurant on this evening to present her dessert creations. Chef Stefan graciously filled in and our selection, a cracked black pepper cheesecake with macerated strawberries, was the perfect finale to this extraordinary meal. We paired the dessert with a 10 year old port and a late harvest gewurtztraminer, each bringing forward different nuances in flavor from both the creamy cheesecake and the fruit.

Dinner for two, with martinis before, wine by the glass and after-dinner drinks totaled $150 usd before adding gratuity. My only recommendation: Provide a greater selection of premium spirits. The only vodka available to us this evening was Absolut. A restaurant of this caliber should have an equally distinctive list of cocktails, wines and cordials.

Hechizo, Spanish for spell, enchantment or charm, lives up to its name and all the fine press it has received to this point. Impressed by the simplicity of the decor, the lack of pretense from either the young chef or his cuisine and the noteworthy level of service, we highly recommend Hechizo as a premier destination dining experience on the Riviera Maya. We too have been charmed and look forward to sharing this magical place with family and friends.

Hechizo: Tulúm, Quintana Roo – Cuisine: International/Fusion. Restaurant Open from mid-November through mid-May, three dinner seatings daily: 6:30, 7:30 and 8:30pm. Closed Mondays. Directions: From Highway 307, turn east onto the road that leads to the beach. At the end of this road, turn right. Drive south on the beach road for several kilometers. When you pass “Amansala’s Casa Magna”, be watching for a small sign that says “Rancho San Eric” and “Hechizo” on low stone wall to your left. Turn left onto the drive. Follow the glow of the lights until you come upon the restaurant. (If you reach the arch for the biosphere, you have gone too far. The entrance is a few 100 meters back.) Reservations required. No Credit Cards Accepted. Telephone: 52-1-984-100-0710 E-mail: hechizo@bigfoot.com To inquire about bungalow rentals at Rancho San Eric visit www.ranchosaneric.com.