Life's a Beach | Expat Life in Playa del Carmen : Community , Tulum

It's Turtle Nesting Season on the Riviera Maya!

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 20:50:00 GMT

It's turtle nesting season again on the Riviera Maya! Every year, adult female Loggerhead and Green Sea Turtles make their way to the beaches of the Riviera Maya, build nests and lay up to 150 soft-shelled eggs twice each season. When the baby turtles hatch (approx. 60 days later), they instinctively head for the water, using the light of the moon for navigation. They smell and taste the sand as they find their way to the ocean and remarkably will return to the very beach where they were born when it comes time for them to nest.

Our good friends at Cabanas Tulum and Ziggy Beach would like to remind everyone to take care during this special time and have shared with us a list of helpful recommendations to consider during this special time!

1. Do not use lights on the beach, shut off balcony lights, and cover all outside lights and windows if you are in a house/condo.

2. If you see a turtle coming ashore to lay their eggs, notify your hotel staff or turtle patrol if you happen to see them on the beach.

3. Do not approach the turtles (unless specifically at the invitation of turtle patrol), do not touch the turtles, definitely do not interfere with any part of the nesting process.

4. Do not take flash photography, this will definitely spook the mom.

5. Do not have beach parties during the nesting season.

6. Keep the beach free of litter or any obstacles that may get in the path of the turtle (bring in beach chairs at night, etc).

7. Keep pets indoors at night, barking dogs are not turtle-friendly.

8. Do not disturb the nests, if you see what you think is a nest that has not been marked, notify the hotel or the authorities.

If everyone works together and respects these rules, we can ensure a long and happy life for this endangered species and their continued visits to the Riviera Maya for years to come.

The best way to see the turtle nests and possibly baby turtles being released is to go on a night walk organized by CEA. Centro Ecologico Akumal is a non-profit environmental organization located in Akumal. They take out a maximum of 10 people each night at 9 pm. CEA is the only organization with permission to access certain beaches during the nesting season. The suggested donation is $15 for adults and $8 for children. Reservations are not accepted, so show up early if you can. There are also regular presentations on the CEA Turtle Watch Program, with slides of the sea turtles and a lecture about their evolution, ecology, behavior, the threats to their survival and how we can help them.

Don't Miss the 9th Annual Festival de la Tortuga Marina!

Rob Kinnon — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 15:44:00 GMT

The 9th annual Sea Turtle Festival is scheduled for October 13 - 16 2011 in Tulum. The Festival de la Tortuga Marina is a free event whose mission is to raise awareness in residents and tourists alike about sea turtle protection.

This event will provide information about these magnificent creatures that are in danger of extinction, There will be arts, environmental and cultural events and activities related to the conservation of sea turtles. Information will also be available about the many organizations working to preserve the sea turtles and how you can contribute. This is a wonderful family event that should not be missed if you are in the area.

To protect the Sea Turtles during the nesting period (May through October) the following is recommended:

Avoid all types of lighting on the beach, including flash photography.

Do not leave objects such as chairs, lounge chairs, garbage on the beach.
Avoid building sand castles, walls or fences that may impede the turtles path to the sea.

Do not approach the turtles during the nesting process.

Not drive on the beach with motor vehicles.

Avoid loud sounds which endanger the work of the turtles during nesting.

Do not touch the turtles.

The sea turtle is an example of survival and harmony in the surrounding ecosystem. Over millions of years has shown its resilience and perseverance. More information and updates about the festival can be found on the festival Facebook page.

Midsummers Eve Food Festival and Fundraiser Planned in Tulum!

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 13 Jun 2011 02:00:00 GMT

****DUE to incliment weather, the Tulum Food Festival has been postponed until Thursday July 7th!!****

An exciting food festival and fundraising event is being planned to to support the Tulum Living School Project and this year’s recipient school “Huricanes Kinder”. The event will take place on Tuesday, June 21 at 6:00pm at Charlie’s Restaurant and Bar in the Tulum Pueblo. This Gourmet Festival will celebrate both traditional Mexican cuisine as well as the gastronomic influences that have been brought to the Riviera Maya from around the globe! Given the diverse population of Tulum and the Mexican Caribbean, this is sure to be a treat for the taste buds. There will also be live music and a spectacular performance of Aztec dance to entertain the guests. Tickets will be 200 pesos per person which will include access to the fabulous array of dishes and two drinks from the bar.

Local restaurants are invited to participate by creating a signature dish that will serve 60-70 guests. There will also be an online raffle and a silent auction and local businesses and individuals are all encouraged to make a donation. Hotel stays, jewelry, apparel, scuba/snorkeling packages, massages, art pieces, adventure tours or anything you can think of will be gratefully accepted and will make help this event a huge success. The following restaurants have pledged their support for this terrific event:

Altamar
Restaurant Las Estrellas @ Cabanas La Luna
Mezzanine Hotel
Sand Bar @ El Pez
La Nave
La Zebra Hotel & Linas Restaurant
Hartwood

Auction and Raffle items will include:

Altamar- Gift Certificate for 2 for Dinner
Altamar -Membership for 1 Vegan/Vegetarian Cooking Workshop- set of 4 classes
Deseire Kvaska - Hand Painted “Dia de los Muertos” Skull
El Pez Hotel @ Turtle Cove - $1,000 Hotel Credit
Gaston- Feather Earrings
Ginger - 500 peso Gift Certificate to Dinner
La Zebra Hotel - $1,000 Hotel Credit
La Llorona - Hand Woven Bag and Scarf
Margo in Mexico - Certificate for 2 Massages & Coconut Oil
Maya Michelle- Turquoise Necklace
Mexico Kan Tours - 2 tour passes for the tour of your choice
Mezzanine Hotel - $1,000 Hotel Credit
Restaurant Las Estrellas @ Cabanas La Luna- Dinner for 2 with a Bottle of Wine
Shantala Spa & Boutique - Certificate for a Massage
Tattooluum - Certificate toward Piercing or Tattoo
Yoga Adventures - Yoga Class

All funds raised from ticket sales, the online raffle and the silent auction will go toward building a palapa and a fence for the kindergarten as well as the acquisition of tables and chairs for the children. The school would also like to implement a recycling program and purchase bins for a proper recycling area.

This event will be promoted on Facebook, Trip Advisor, Twitter, Tulum.info, tulumliving.com and many other popular Tulum travel sites ensuring excellent exposure for not only the festival but also its sponsors and contributing businesses. Participating hotels will help by selling tickets for the event.

The Tulum Living School Project is a local initiative whose mission is to help improve the infrastructure of schools in Tulum while promoting recycling education. To learn more, visit www.tulumschools.blogspot.com . For information about this event and to purchase raffle tickets, contact TulumLiving@yahoo.com .

Recycling in Playa del Carmen - How are we doing in 2008?

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 13:26:00 GMT

Over the past four years, I have seen the concept of recycling evolve from a "silly notion" promoted only by a bunch of "gringos" to a full on Cultural Revolution. Rarely a day goes by that I don't receive an email from someone, Ex-pat or Mexican National, reminding me about a recycling drive or a newly established drop-off area. When we arrived here in 2004, the only "recycling" available to us was saving cans for our babysitter, Lydia, to sell and turning in our cases of empty Sol and Dos Equis bottles for fresh, cold, full ones. Many people, when they first move here, are shocked and disgusted with the amount of waste and refuse that can be found littering any unclaimed sliver of property. Since we moved to Mexico, I have heard more than a few "interesting" hypothesis about why the Mexicans "appear" to care so little for their environment and the beauty of their city and its beaches. Many of these conclusions come from folks whose knowledge of this area and its history is limited. Others, suggesting that Mexicans are simply too lazy to clean up after themselves or too dirty to notice the difference, are based in nothing more than ignorance and racism.

I, of course, have my own theory. Let's turn back the clock about 60 years:

In "Anytown", USA convenience products were making a big splash in the households of everyday Americans. Packaged, processed affordable meals made cooking a snap and new fangled cleaning products promised to shave hours off of the back-breaking, mind-numbing daily activities of the average homemaker. The explosive popularity of television in the home made attractive packaging for all these new products as important as the product itself. The economy was strong. Consumption was high. The "American Dream" was being lived to its fullest and advertised nightly in every living room across the country! Any resulting waste was picked up and removed systematically by well organized public or private waste management companies. Once the garbage left the curb, little thought was given to its destination by Mr. and Mrs. Homeowner.

In contrast, 60 years ago, the city of Playa del Carmen was a mere speck on the map of the world. A small wooden dock servicing a few families of fishermen and the chicle farmers, generally ex-convicts banished to the jungle and the scourge of the region. Small coconut plantations dotted the coast and milpa farmers worked the interior, providing the food staple, masa, for their villages. The region was dangerous and sparsely populated. People worked the land, raised livestock and were completely self sufficient. The master-plan that would become Cancun was not even a glimmer in the eyes of FONATUR. Quintana Roo would not be recognized as a sovereign state in Mexico until 1974! As a point of reference, Alaska became the 49th United State in 1959. With so few inhabitants spread out across such a large area, their impact on the environment was minimal. The only waste created was all naturally biodegradable. All meals were prepared, cooked and served using hand-made earthenware vessels and large leaves from indigenous fruit trees. Leaves and peels were tossed into the jungle where they broke down and enriched the soil. When the beauty and value of the Riviera Maya was finally realized by the outside world, change came swiftly and with little or no regard for the people who had called the jungle home for centuries. Development and tourism brought demand for modern products and "first world" conveniences. Local villages now had corner stores which sold new and fascinating foods and beverages as soon as they became available. In their excitement to try each and every strange delicacy that made it to the shelves of the local tiendita, people gave little thought to the bits of pretty colored paper and plastic these treats were wrapped in. And so, as were thousands of years worth of banana peels and leaves before them, they were tossed to the ground.

But we are making changes and we are seeing results. In 2006, Ana Garcia, a young mother, originally from Mexico City, started a grassroots organization called Biostandard: its mission, to give real meaning to the words "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" in her new home, Playa del Carmen. Her company and her ideas drew a lot of attention and support, particularly from other young like-minded women living in this area. Soon, the Biostandard founder and her enthusiastic team were organizing seminars in the local schools, teaching students and parents alike how to reduce the amount of waste we all create and in doing so live healthier lives. Biostandard provided recycled, biodegradable plastic products (plates, forks, spoons, take-out containers) to some of the most prominent area businesses such as Grupo Xcaret and Dolphin Discovery. They also distributed a line of biodegradable household cleaning products to reduce our daily exposure to chemicals that damage our environment and may cause health concerns in the future. Ana now works with a similar organization MAREMEX that evaluates the waste generated by local businesses, organizations, schools, hotels and even families, then, designs and implements recycling programs tailored specifically to the needs of those particular groups.

In 2007, recycling and local supporters in the Riviera Maya got a real boost from the Environment Agency of Solidaridad (EAS). In coordination with environmental NGOs , private enterprises and concerned citizens, an enormous collection of recyclable items was organized to benefit of the communities of Playa del Carmen, Akumal and Tulum. All the cardboard collected that day was donated to the National Commission of Free Textbooks for the production of free textbooks and educational materials. Local residents were offered various workshops on creating handcrafts and toys from recyclable waste as well as instruction on how to conserve local resources and reduce waste in their everyday lives. At this time, the EAS announced a groundbreaking initiative, the Municipal Waste Separation Program. By installing "Clean Spots" in readily accessible public areas throughout the city of Playa del Carmen, residents would now be able to easily leave their clean, sorted recyclable waste, thus reducing the amount of trash in the streets and in our municipal landfill.

Recycling bins and the collection center at Parque la Ceiba in Playa del Carmen

Now, many of the schools run their own independent recycling programs, supervised by the parents and teachers but staffed by the students. The new Parque la Ceiba, just west of 307 and south of Juarez, has its own internal recycling center, collecting not only what has been discarded in the well-marked modern bins strategically placed around the park but also recyclable items brought in from outside individuals. Many homeowners who offer their villas and condos to vacation renters have set up basic in house recycling facilities for their guests' use and at least one of the major resort chains, RIU, is making strides to reduce the amount of waste generated on their sites, recycle what they can and encourage guests to conserve water and electricity whenever possible. Why, one of Playa del Carmen's hippest, chicest hotels, Basico, is decorated almost entirely with recycled and reused items and materials!

The recycling station at La Buena Vida.

It's not just the big cities and mega-resorts jumping on the recycling bandwagon. In more remote parts of the Riviera Maya, the idea of recycling seems to be making progress as well. Take a drive down the Tulum beach road and near the entrances to many of the small hotels and private beach homes, you will see small, often handmade, labeled containers where items to be recycled are sorted and left for collection. With wind and solar power the dominant sources of energy to these beach properties, it comes as no surprise that local residents and business owners have made the preservation of their environment as a top priority. Tulum inaugurated its own Centro de Acopio (Recycling Center) in July of 2007 in response to the growing needs of a small town exploding into a city.

Recycling drop off spot in Akumal

The Centro Ecologico Akumal (CEA) is at the forefront of recycling efforts in the popular seaside town, Akumal, and its pueblo. Attractive, clearly labeled bins have been set up in the village, west of 307, and there is a serviceable recycling station for general use just past the parking area for the main bay. It's not too pretty and looks like it could use a bit more TLC but it is there and has been well used for as long as I can remember. Residents and frequent visitors to Akumal are among the most environmentally concerned and conscientious in all of the Riviera Maya. Recycling, proper waste disposal and the preservation of the reef, the beaches and the wetlands is, and always has been, a top priority here.

Composting Toilet in Xpu Ha Mangrove at risk in Puerto Morelos

In Puerto Morelos, as early as 1993, in response to growing concerns about the quality of the ground water and the health of the community, an aggressive campaign was begun in this town, just south of Cancun. The Puerto Morelos Composting Toilet Project was initiated and implemented with varying degrees of success and acceptance in this tiny fishing village poised just beyond the shadows of Cancun's towering hotels and skyscraping condos. Although initially met with resistance, these toilets are now commonly used throughout the region and have significantly reduced the amount of human waste making its way into the precious potable groundwater. The delicate mangrove that surrounds the town has been and continues to be the focus of great concern, having been ravaged by hurricanes and destroyed by unscrupulous developers.

60 years ago, in "Anytown", USA, were we any more environmentally aware? What kind of recycling programs were in place in "Anytown" USA in the 1950s? What plans did our parents have in place for preserving the earth their children would inherit? What measure of success shall we hold their conservation efforts to?

Here we are, about half way through 2008 in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, trying to see how OUR efforts measure up. If you consider how abruptly development has come and how quickly the residents of the area have adapted and accepted the need for lifestyle changes, I think we are doing quite well. I think the progress that has been made in awareness and conservation of the environment is laudable but we still have a long way to go. Too often still, the promise of profit wins out over environmental concerns. Certainly education is the key and the programs and seminars held regularly in local schools help to ensure that future generations recognize the need and possess the skills to preserve this beautiful area. Still, the struggle against what is "easy" and what is "right" will always be played out as it is everywhere in the world. "Clean Spots", municipal recycling stations on the street corners and organized recycling drives are making recycling much more convenient for locals and tourists to properly dispose of items rather than have them left on the beach or tossed in the street. Now provided with information and the proper tools, the people of this region are grasping the concept of recycling whole-heartedly. Community driven programs to preserve and improve green spaces in the city are underway and gaining governmental support. I have even seen signs promoting home composting programs in the small town of Filipe Carrillo Puerto 1 hour south of Tulum!

CEA coloring book teaches children how to help save our precious reef.

So, yes, conservation, preservation and recycling are high priorities for the residents of this region. With well-regulated controls on commercial development, continued education for those people living in more remote areas of Quintana Roo, the support of private and governmental entities and the cooperation of everyone in the community, the Riviera Maya will continue to be a beautiful place to live and visit for many generations to come. For information on regional recycling programs and conservation efforts, follow the links provided above and see how you too can make a difference.

Hechizo - Culinary Enchantment in Tulum

Rob Kinnon — Mon, 05 May 2008 17:47:00 GMT

Tucked away at the southern end of Tulum's world famous beaches, perched on the edge of the Sian Kaan biosphere, the more intrepid traveler will find Hechizo, a restaurant certain to cast a powerful spell on even the most discriminating diner. On a lush oceanfront parcel known as Rancho San Eric, Chef Stefan Schober and his wife and pastry chef, H ui have created out of their collective imaginations a remarkable dining experience unparalleled in all the Riviera Maya. Stefan, born to Austrian parents and raised in Mexico City, met H ui while they were both working in the world class kitchen of the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Singapore and, eventually, brought her back to Mexico, to the beaches of his childhood. The restaurant is of their own design and sits amidst tropical palms and flowering plants on the property owned by Stefan's parents. Although, on good advisement from local message boards, we scouted out the location in advance in the light of day, our 8:30pm reservation would still bring us crawling at a snail's pace down the dusty Boca Paila road in the pitch blackness, eyes pealed for the small sign marking the entrance. Under a blanket of a billion stars, a long winding path, dimly lit by conch shell luminaries, brings you to a small walkover bridge spanning a delightful man-made pond and its colorful aquatic inhabitants. The dining room itself, punctuated by an enormous fresh water aquarium, is rather sparse in appearance. The table arrangements are all different but each has a distinct asian influence, perhaps a reflection of H ui's heritage or of the couple's time spent together in the East. Each element of the decor has been carefully selected and the tables set well apart from one another to ensure an intimate experience for each party.

There are no printed menus, save one, a list of available wines and spirits. Instead, Chef Stefan kneels at each table and regales his guests with his offerings for the evening. Although, it is clear given Stefan's extensive training at the Culinary Institute of Austria, that each dish has been masterfully orchestrated, he will let you know that ingredients and preparation can be "open for negotiation". I was disappointed when the young chef rebuffed my invitation to simply present us whatever dishes were to his particular liking but we had no trouble making our selections from the 5 or 6 starters and entrees prepared for this evening's guests.

An "amuse bouche" of fresh mozzarella dressed with extra virgin olive oil and cracked black pepper, topped with a marinated tomato and basil salad.

Mild Mexican goat cheese served atop a crisp, juicy rectangle of seedless watermelon on a lightly dressed bed of watercress and sprinkled with toasted pine nuts and a sweet balsamic reduction. This is Chef Stefan's signature appetizer and with good reason. The creaminess of the goat cheese, the crisp sweetness of the watermelon and the peppery bite of the watercress all playfully meld together without losing their individual attributes. It's a remarkable combination.

Sweet and savory. Oven roasted beets topped with supremes of fresh manadarin orange, watercress and a generous slice of Danish blue cheese all drizzled with the sweet balsamic reduction. This is where Stefan shows his maturity as a chef. Rather than preparing dozens of sauces in an effort to dazzle diners with an extensive repertoire, he focuses on using the finest, freshest local ingredients, presenting them simply in a variety of settings, each meticulously designed to show off both flavors and textures.

Seated within view of the kitchen, we could observe the chef in his natural habitat, testing temperatures, tasting and re-tasting every sauce, every dressing before it went in front of the guests. This attention to detail and relentless pursuit of perfection seems certainly a result of his strict European culinary training and his Austrian heritage. I would be remiss if I did not call attention to the servers who are among the best I have ever seen and inarguably complete the most professional restaurant staff in this region. The timing from the kitchen was impeccable and the waiters worked together seamlessly, each movement deliberate and purposeful yet unobtrusive.

Roasted sea bass perched on a bed of wilted chaya and oven roasted potato all dressed with a dollop of truffle cream was my entree of choice. The silky smoothness of the truffle cream was a perfect enhancement for the mild, moist sea bass. The sauteed chaya, a spinach-like green had just the slightest twang of acidity, perfect to cut through the fatty goodness of the fish. My husband chose the lamb osso buco which was cooked to perfection and slid off the bone with just the slightest prodding. Full of flavor from a braising liquid made of only the finest ingredients, the lamb was succulent and tender and served with simple elegance in a large white ceramic bowl with creamy mashed potatoes laced with nutmeg as an accompaniment.

Out on a brief leave, celebrating the recent birth of their second child, H ui was not in the restaurant on this evening to present her dessert creations. Chef Stefan graciously filled in and our selection, a cracked black pepper cheesecake with macerated strawberries, was the perfect finale to this extraordinary meal. We paired the dessert with a 10 year old port and a late harvest gewurtztraminer, each bringing forward different nuances in flavor from both the creamy cheesecake and the fruit.

Dinner for two, with martinis before, wine by the glass and after-dinner drinks totaled $150 usd before adding gratuity. My only recommendation: Provide a greater selection of premium spirits. The only vodka available to us this evening was Absolut. A restaurant of this caliber should have an equally distinctive list of cocktails, wines and cordials.

Hechizo, Spanish for spell, enchantment or charm, lives up to its name and all the fine press it has received to this point. Impressed by the simplicity of the decor, the lack of pretense from either the young chef or his cuisine and the noteworthy level of service, we highly recommend Hechizo as a premier destination dining experience on the Riviera Maya. We too have been charmed and look forward to sharing this magical place with family and friends.

Hechizo: Tulúm, Quintana Roo – Cuisine: International/Fusion. Restaurant Open from mid-November through mid-May, three dinner seatings daily: 6:30, 7:30 and 8:30pm. Closed Mondays. Directions: From Highway 307, turn east onto the road that leads to the beach. At the end of this road, turn right. Drive south on the beach road for several kilometers. When you pass “Amansala’s Casa Magna”, be watching for a small sign that says “Rancho San Eric” and “Hechizo” on low stone wall to your left. Turn left onto the drive. Follow the glow of the lights until you come upon the restaurant. (If you reach the arch for the biosphere, you have gone too far. The entrance is a few 100 meters back.) Reservations required. No Credit Cards Accepted. Telephone: 52-1-984-100-0710 E-mail: hechizo@bigfoot.com To inquire about bungalow rentals at Rancho San Eric visit www.ranchosaneric.com.