Playa del Carmen Real Estate Blog - Observations on Life and Real Estate in Playa del Carmen, Mexico

Polo anyone?

2008-07-19T11:00:00Z

One summer afternoon in 1984, my friend and fellow horse fanatic, Allison invited me to attend a Polo match with her parents in historic Saratoga Springs. From that day on, watching Polo has become a favorite summer activity that I have been able to share with Rob and the kids. While I have been grossly negligent about investigating the Polo matches that are held just north of us in Puerto Morelos, I waste no time in packing the kids into the truck and hauling them up to Saratoga Polo at every opportunity. Because this summer trip is abbreviated and we have a lot of family and friends to accomodate, we are only able to attend one match. Here are some of the photos from our afternoon taken with my unbelievably complicated new "grown up" camera (Nikon D60 VR). Thank you Rob!!!

In the 6th chucker, Buckleigh Farm bested Team Tackeria and took the match. For those of you who have an interest in this exciting game The United States Polo Association has a great website with excellent information about the sport, its history, rules for play and Polo clubs all across the country. Whether you learn to play or just want to watch from the sidelines, this sport of kings is a fast-paced, high-spirited activity that can be enjoyed by everyone, young and old, from all walks of life. So, pack up the car with a picnic basket, folding chairs and a good pair of binoculars to catch all the action. I guarantee you'll be hooked!

Recycling Drive - July 19, 2008

2008-07-17T21:13:00Z

Hello Playa friends and family!

There will be a big recycling drive tomorrow, Saturday July 19 at Parque la Ceiba.

The goal is to collect 30 tons of recyclable materials!!

The following items will be accepted at the park from 9:00am - 4:00pm.

Cans
Glass
Plastics and PET
Tetra Pak (milk, juice cartons)
Batteries
Paper and Cardboard
Electronics
Domestic Appliances

Let's work together to keep Playa green and clean! Proceeds from this recycling drive will help support and maintain Playa's wonderful Parque la Ceiba.

Past Lives Revisited

2008-07-16T16:50:00Z

Who ever coined the phrase "You can never go home" must have burned all his bridges behind him. One of the things I enjoy best about our annual trip back to the U.S. and my hometown is visiting friends I haven't seen in a long time and making un-announced stops at previous places of employment and other old haunts. I have had the extreme good fortune throughout my life to find myself in the right place at the right time. During a particularly painful period, after the death of my mother, I found myself back in Albany, parentless, unemployed, painfully single and responsible for taking care of my brother and cleaning up an estate nightmare left to me to sort out. In search of gainful, temporary (I thought) employment, I applied for a job waiting tables at a nice northern Italian restaurant, Milano, just a few moments from my childhood home. Thankfully, the owner/chef, Dan Darves, saw something in me (past a grief-stricken, vodka soaked, emotional wreck) and hired me on. Over the next few years, the Milano family was there to support me through the healing process, didn't fire me for showing up hung-over or worse, promoted me to manager, catered my first wedding, watched without criticism as the marriage quickly dissolved and gratiously let me move on when I was finally ready to take on new challenges in my life. Needless to say, Milano is one of the first places I gravitate to when I return to my hometown. This time, I treated Birdie and Cole to lunch so they could meet my old friends, taste some of the best food in the Capital District and experience a little bit of their Mom's history.

Margherita Pizza (Wood-oven fired Pizza with Fresh Plum Tomatoes, Onions, Garlic, Basil and Mozzarella)

Tortellini Arcobaleno (Tri-Color Cheese Tortellini with Prosciutto and Peas In a Parmigiano Cream Sauce).

It was great to see some of the old crew, Scott and Timmy, and of course, one of the original "Milano Girls" and my dear friend, Heidi. It's nice to be able to come back to open arms and people who have always been supportive of your efforts (no matter how mis-guided they were at times) and are happy to see you happy and successful in life. OK, now I'm a little bit teary, damnit!

If you are ever in the Albany area, be sure to stop in to Milano and let them know Michele in Mexico sent you with love.

To Grandmother's House We Go

2008-07-15T11:30:00Z

Birdie and Cole and I have been staying at Grandma's house for the past few days, relaxing and having fun. Sunday night, the kids helped Grandma bake homemade granola bars. They came out warm, chewy and delicious! Here is the recipe and a few pictures.

1 cup quick cooking rolled oats
1/2 cup sunflower seeds
1/2 cup toasted wheat germ
1/4 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 cup dried apricots
1/2 cup almonds
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup pitted dates
1/2 cup powdered, non-fat dry milk
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/3 cup pure maple syrup
2 large eggs

Pre-heat oven to 350F. Place all ingredients except the maple syrup and eggs in a food processor and pulse until the mixture is finely chopped. In a large bowl combine and wisk the eggs and maple syrup. Add this to the food processor and pulse until well combined to form a coarse paste. Evenly spread the granola mixture into a greased 9x13 baking dish and press flat. Bake at 350F for 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly and cut into bars.

Patty's Getting Married!!!

2008-07-14T22:46:00Z

Greeting from Albany, New York to all "Life's a Beach" readers!! We are here and settled and trying to accomplish all of our annual "stateside" goals. Clothes for the kids, new cameras, spices and seasonings: all these things and more need to be purchased and "muled" back to Mexico when we return in two weeks. This year, we are rotating our stay between friends and family: a few nights with Grandma, three days with friends Deirdre and Dan and their children, five days with my brother and three with my friend Patty's Mom, a woman who was as instrumental in my up-bringing as my own mother. I am really looking forward to spending time with her as this September, her only child and my dear friend Patty is getting married. I have been in asked to be a bridesmaid and part of this trip will be focused on the bridal shower, dress fittings and wedding preparations! Yippee!!!

Saturday, Beth Sullivan, Jean MacAffer and I hosted Patty's shower at one of my favorite venues: the historic Saratoga Polo Club in Saratoga Springs, New York. Here are some pictures of the event taken with my new blogging camera. (Canon Powershot SD 870 IS) Thanks for the early birthday present, honey!!

The Clubhouse at Saratoga Polo

Patty, Amy and Susan

Christine and Deirdre

Aunt Pat, Marilyn (Mom) and Jean

Patty's Grammy Francis

Patty and Susan

Caroline, Molly, Patty and Patty English

Jill and Nancy

Aunt Marcia and Marilyn (MAP).

Jean helping Patty with gifts.

The girls dishing.

Amy and Jen

Pretty present from Mom.

Kimberly, Patty and Donna

Aunt Marcia, Christine, Deirdre and Jen

Elizabeth, Bennett and Jill

Mom and Grammy

Donna and Susan

Ciara and Beth

Me, Beth and Patty

The bride-to-be with hat-by-Beth!

Proud mother-of-the-bride-to-be!

Despite my initital culture shock and painful feet, I really enjoyed this lovely day and I am so pleased to be included in my friend's special day. It was nice to see old friends and catch up with everyone. Congratulations and best wishes to Patty and Jeff. May you have a lifetime of love and laughter together! I can't wait for the wedding!!

Would you like to know.....what it looks like inside a cenote?

2008-07-14T12:48:00Z

Cenote Dzitnup in Valladolid

Would you like to know........what a Jabiru is?

2008-07-13T12:25:00Z

Would you like to know........where to eat in Burrell Boom, Belize?

2008-07-12T12:20:00Z

Miss Robina's. Just ask anyone.

Would you like to know........where to get a home-cooked meal in Playa del Carmen?

2008-07-11T12:57:00Z

Dona Juanita on Juarez at Avenida 45.

Going Stateside

2008-07-10T14:40:00Z

This afternoon, the little ones and I are leaving today for a two week vacation visiting family and friends in upstate New York. In my absence, Stuart will be taking pictures for the monthly PDC Construction Update and sending them up to me. I plan to have that posted for you all early next week. As I don't really know what my blogging opportunities will be I am going to take a cue from my cyber-friend Misty who is currently in Indonesia. And so, for the next few days I leave you with this:

Would you like to know........what we eat for breakfast on Sundays?

Tacos Kastacan from Carnitas Teresita on calle 1 sur and Avenida 20.

Recycling in Playa del Carmen - How are we doing in 2008?

2008-07-07T13:26:00Z

Over the past four years, I have seen the concept of recycling evolve from a "silly notion" promoted only by a bunch of "gringos" to a full on Cultural Revolution. Rarely a day goes by that I don't receive an email from someone, Ex-pat or Mexican National, reminding me about a recycling drive or a newly established drop-off area. When we arrived here in 2004, the only "recycling" available to us was saving cans for our babysitter, Lydia, to sell and turning in our cases of empty Sol and Dos Equis bottles for fresh, cold, full ones. Many people, when they first move here, are shocked and disgusted with the amount of waste and refuse that can be found littering any unclaimed sliver of property. Since we moved to Mexico, I have heard more than a few "interesting" hypothesis about why the Mexicans "appear" to care so little for their environment and the beauty of their city and its beaches. Many of these conclusions come from folks whose knowledge of this area and its history is limited. Others, suggesting that Mexicans are simply too lazy to clean up after themselves or too dirty to notice the difference, are based in nothing more than ignorance and racism.

I, of course, have my own theory. Let's turn back the clock about 60 years:

In "Anytown", USA convenience products were making a big splash in the households of everyday Americans. Packaged, processed affordable meals made cooking a snap and new fangled cleaning products promised to shave hours off of the back-breaking, mind-numbing daily activities of the average homemaker. The explosive popularity of television in the home made attractive packaging for all these new products as important as the product itself. The economy was strong. Consumption was high. The "American Dream" was being lived to its fullest and advertised nightly in every living room across the country! Any resulting waste was picked up and removed systematically by well organized public or private waste management companies. Once the garbage left the curb, little thought was given to its destination by Mr. and Mrs. Homeowner.

In contrast, 60 years ago, the city of Playa del Carmen was a mere speck on the map of the world. A small wooden dock servicing a few families of fishermen and the chicle farmers, generally ex-convicts banished to the jungle and the scourge of the region. Small coconut plantations dotted the coast and milpa farmers worked the interior, providing the food staple, masa, for their villages. The region was dangerous and sparsely populated. People worked the land, raised livestock and were completely self sufficient. The master-plan that would become Cancun was not even a glimmer in the eyes of FONATUR. Quintana Roo would not be recognized as a sovereign state in Mexico until 1974! As a point of reference, Alaska became the 49th United State in 1959. With so few inhabitants spread out across such a large area, their impact on the environment was minimal. The only waste created was all naturally biodegradable. All meals were prepared, cooked and served using hand-made earthenware vessels and large leaves from indigenous fruit trees. Leaves and peels were tossed into the jungle where they broke down and enriched the soil. When the beauty and value of the Riviera Maya was finally realized by the outside world, change came swiftly and with little or no regard for the people who had called the jungle home for centuries. Development and tourism brought demand for modern products and "first world" conveniences. Local villages now had corner stores which sold new and fascinating foods and beverages as soon as they became available. In their excitement to try each and every strange delicacy that made it to the shelves of the local tiendita, people gave little thought to the bits of pretty colored paper and plastic these treats were wrapped in. And so, as were thousands of years worth of banana peels and leaves before them, they were tossed to the ground.

But we are making changes and we are seeing results. In 2006, Ana Garcia, a young mother, originally from Mexico City, started a grassroots organization called Biostandard: its mission, to give real meaning to the words "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" in her new home, Playa del Carmen. Her company and her ideas drew a lot of attention and support, particularly from other young like-minded women living in this area. Soon, the Biostandard founder and her enthusiastic team were organizing seminars in the local schools, teaching students and parents alike how to reduce the amount of waste we all create and in doing so live healthier lives. Biostandard provided recycled, biodegradable plastic products (plates, forks, spoons, take-out containers) to some of the most prominent area businesses such as Grupo Xcaret and Dolphin Discovery. They also distributed a line of biodegradable household cleaning products to reduce our daily exposure to chemicals that damage our environment and may cause health concerns in the future. Ana now works with a similar organization MAREMEX that evaluates the waste generated by local businesses, organizations, schools, hotels and even families, then, designs and implements recycling programs tailored specifically to the needs of those particular groups.

In 2007, recycling and local supporters in the Riviera Maya got a real boost from the Environment Agency of Solidaridad (EAS). In coordination with environmental NGOs , private enterprises and concerned citizens, an enormous collection of recyclable items was organized to benefit of the communities of Playa del Carmen, Akumal and Tulum. All the cardboard collected that day was donated to the National Commission of Free Textbooks for the production of free textbooks and educational materials. Local residents were offered various workshops on creating handcrafts and toys from recyclable waste as well as instruction on how to conserve local resources and reduce waste in their everyday lives. At this time, the EAS announced a groundbreaking initiative, the Municipal Waste Separation Program. By installing "Clean Spots" in readily accessible public areas throughout the city of Playa del Carmen, residents would now be able to easily leave their clean, sorted recyclable waste, thus reducing the amount of trash in the streets and in our municipal landfill.

Recycling bins and the collection center at Parque la Ceiba in Playa del Carmen

Now, many of the schools run their own independent recycling programs, supervised by the parents and teachers but staffed by the students. The new Parque la Ceiba, just west of 307 and south of Juarez, has its own internal recycling center, collecting not only what has been discarded in the well-marked modern bins strategically placed around the park but also recyclable items brought in from outside individuals. Many homeowners who offer their villas and condos to vacation renters have set up basic in house recycling facilities for their guests' use and at least one of the major resort chains, RIU, is making strides to reduce the amount of waste generated on their sites, recycle what they can and encourage guests to conserve water and electricity whenever possible. Why, one of Playa del Carmen's hippest, chicest hotels, Basico, is decorated almost entirely with recycled and reused items and materials!

The recycling station at La Buena Vida.

It's not just the big cities and mega-resorts jumping on the recycling bandwagon. In more remote parts of the Riviera Maya, the idea of recycling seems to be making progress as well. Take a drive down the Tulum beach road and near the entrances to many of the small hotels and private beach homes, you will see small, often handmade, labeled containers where items to be recycled are sorted and left for collection. With wind and solar power the dominant sources of energy to these beach properties, it comes as no surprise that local residents and business owners have made the preservation of their environment as a top priority. Tulum inaugurated its own Centro de Acopio (Recycling Center) in July of 2007 in response to the growing needs of a small town exploding into a city.

Recycling drop off spot in Akumal

The Centro Ecologico Akumal (CEA) is at the forefront of recycling efforts in the popular seaside town, Akumal, and its pueblo. Attractive, clearly labeled bins have been set up in the village, west of 307, and there is a serviceable recycling station for general use just past the parking area for the main bay. It's not too pretty and looks like it could use a bit more TLC but it is there and has been well used for as long as I can remember. Residents and frequent visitors to Akumal are among the most environmentally concerned and conscientious in all of the Riviera Maya. Recycling, proper waste disposal and the preservation of the reef, the beaches and the wetlands is, and always has been, a top priority here.

Composting Toilet in Xpu Ha Mangrove at risk in Puerto Morelos

In Puerto Morelos, as early as 1993, in response to growing concerns about the quality of the ground water and the health of the community, an aggressive campaign was begun in this town, just south of Cancun. The Puerto Morelos Composting Toilet Project was initiated and implemented with varying degrees of success and acceptance in this tiny fishing village poised just beyond the shadows of Cancun's towering hotels and skyscraping condos. Although initially met with resistance, these toilets are now commonly used throughout the region and have significantly reduced the amount of human waste making its way into the precious potable groundwater. The delicate mangrove that surrounds the town has been and continues to be the focus of great concern, having been ravaged by hurricanes and destroyed by unscrupulous developers.

60 years ago, in "Anytown", USA, were we any more environmentally aware? What kind of recycling programs were in place in "Anytown" USA in the 1950s? What plans did our parents have in place for preserving the earth their children would inherit? What measure of success shall we hold their conservation efforts to?

Here we are, about half way through 2008 in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, trying to see how OUR efforts measure up. If you consider how abruptly development has come and how quickly the residents of the area have adapted and accepted the need for lifestyle changes, I think we are doing quite well. I think the progress that has been made in awareness and conservation of the environment is laudable but we still have a long way to go. Too often still, the promise of profit wins out over environmental concerns. Certainly education is the key and the programs and seminars held regularly in local schools help to ensure that future generations recognize the need and possess the skills to preserve this beautiful area. Still, the struggle against what is "easy" and what is "right" will always be played out as it is everywhere in the world. "Clean Spots", municipal recycling stations on the street corners and organized recycling drives are making recycling much more convenient for locals and tourists to properly dispose of items rather than have them left on the beach or tossed in the street. Now provided with information and the proper tools, the people of this region are grasping the concept of recycling whole-heartedly. Community driven programs to preserve and improve green spaces in the city are underway and gaining governmental support. I have even seen signs promoting home composting programs in the small town of Filipe Carrillo Puerto 1 hour south of Tulum!

CEA coloring book teaches children how to help save our precious reef.

So, yes, conservation, preservation and recycling are high priorities for the residents of this region. With well-regulated controls on commercial development, continued education for those people living in more remote areas of Quintana Roo, the support of private and governmental entities and the cooperation of everyone in the community, the Riviera Maya will continue to be a beautiful place to live and visit for many generations to come. For information on regional recycling programs and conservation efforts, follow the links provided above and see how you too can make a difference.

A Happy 4th of July in Playa del Carmen

2008-07-05T17:56:00Z

Captain Dave's Bad Boys Beach Bar was the scene of this years rip roaring 4th of July celebration. Our own Cowboy John smoked an enormous pig and dozens of local folks contributed their favorite potluck side dishes, creating a fabulous feast. J.J. and the Nasty Bastards shared their stage with the rest of Playa's best musical talent. The house band from The Jam Session, Bad Brad and the Culture Orphans, Barefoot Skinny and a host of visiting musicians all joined together to make this day so special. The Peanut Pet Shelter's raffle brought in an amazing $4600 dollars with prizes donated from generous local businesses. Undoubtedly, the highlight of the day, was the return of Playa's beloved Michael Grady. Singer, songwriter and entertainer extraordinaire, Grady returned to the United States last year and his departure, while necessary for his health and mental well-being, left a hole in the local music scene and in our hearts as well. It was wonderful to see him back in top form, happy and healthy and doing what he loves best.

Here are some pictures from the party. Apologies to those of you whose names I've botched or forgotten.

Rob (BuyPlaya), Derek and Chief Brian (Bomberos)

Bad Brad Ryan

The prettiest Culture Orphan

Miss Edie and Birdie

Rick (Babaloo) and Susie (SusieQRoo)

Food going fast!

Mimi (Blah, blah, blah Ginger) , Lisa (Living the Lisa Loca) and Rob (Bric International)

Tyra and Andy (Peanut Pet Shelter)

Mark (PlayadelSoul, Harmon Hall) with and Tony and Cheri (Luna Blue Hotel)

Tyra and Joe Colada

Steve (Baked) and Deb (OregonDeb)

Barefoot Skinny, Derek and Tony

Marlin (Big Fish) and Cynthia(?)

Jez (The Beer Bucket), Annabelle (Mrs.Bigfish) and her son

Kim and Kaj

Keersten and Claire

Kim and Noreen

Heather (playa.info) and Jez

Leasa (Ginger)

Jay (jaydoil) and Mr. Grady

J.J. (JPlayaJ) and friends

Kim and Cheif Brian (Bomberos)

Captain Dave (Bad Boys Beach Bar)

Sharkey brings down the house of the rising sun!

Mr. Michael Grady

A special thanks to Captain Dave for once again providing us with a place to gather and have a great time. Hats off to all the musicians, bartenders, waiters, local and visiting chefs and Cowboy John for their contributions to this event. The following businesses and individuals generously donated goods and services to the raffle benefiting The Peanut Pet Shelter, the Riviera Maya's only no-kill animal shelter, finding families and forever homes for loving dogs and cats. Thank you, thank you, thank you everyone!!

Off the Vine, the Bomberos, Luna Blue Hotel and Bar, Joe Colada, Kool Beach Club, Harmon Hall, Fusion Hotel and Restaurant, Tango Taco, ATV Explorer, La Tortuga Hotel and Bistro, Babes Restaurant, Dr. Jorge Armenta, Manne's Biergarten, www.intheroo.com, The Beer Bucket, www.playamayanews.com , La Famiglia Restaurant, Geofish Dive Shop, Ultralight, Barry Launius, the Fat Cat Catamaran, Reflex Massage, Fast Blast Speed Boats.

Recycling Reminder - July 4th 2008

2008-07-03T17:14:00Z

Just a reminder to everyone that this Friday July 4th, at the Municipal Plaza, they will be accepting recyclable items.

I also have made inquiries with the directors of Parque la Ceiba to see if they are taking recycling on a regular basis. Laurab on playa.info gave me the heads up that this may be a possibility for those of us who cannot collect our items for a whole month.

Many people living in Playa del Carmen have limited space for storage of recyclable items. Now that schools are out for the summer and their internal recycling programs are suspended, we are left waiting for the first Friday of every month. Many people are not able to keep all of their recycling for so long and, inevitably, must dispose of items that they would otherwise turn in. If it is possible for people to drop off recycling at the park, that would be a very useful option.

I hope to hear back from them soon! Until then, the list of items that may be turned in tomorrow is posted below. Every little bit helps to make Playa a cleaner, greener place to live!!

Who:    Everyone
What:   Local Recycling Center
When: The 1st Friday of each month, 9am - 1pm
Where: The Municipal Plaza in Playa del Carmen, Ave. 20 between calles 8 and 10
Why:    To help preserve our small piece of paradise!
How:     Bring the following materials to the collection area in front of the Municipal Plaza the first Friday of every month, between 9am and 1pm.

The following items will be accepted:

Plastics (PET) - clear plastics, water bottles etc.
Paper - must not have crayon on it or other oily substances
Cardboard - clean with no food oils or residue
Batteries
Old Electronics
Scrap Metal
Aluminum - cans, clean foil etc.
Used Cooking Oil - in a sealed container

Please be sure all your recycled materials are clean and dry.

The following locations will also be accepting Recyclable Materials the first Friday of every month:

Puerto Aventuras - The Skateboard Park
Akumal - El Centro Ecologico Akumal
Tulum - La Casa de La Cultura

Back to Belize - Part 2

2008-07-02T16:31:00Z

We awoke to pleasant rays of much needed sunshine, bid a hasty "adieu" to Turtle Inn and carted ourselves back toward town to Captain Jaks, a modest but charming property recommended to us by a friend in Playa. We were immediately greeted by Tamalyn Martin, a young woman from Texas whose parents had recently acquired the cabanas from the original owner, off to seek his fortune in Panama. Their plans to retire to Placencia were a few years off and she had just recently moved down to care for the property and run the business in the interim. She appeared to be happy and settling in well and after showing us to our accommodations, a sturdy two story, two bedroom wood cabin, she pointed us in the direction of her daily breakfast spot.

While we certainly didn't need the second bedroom, we chose this cabin to take advantage of the ocean breezes on the second level.

View down the lagoon from Captain Jak's spacious dock.

The beach is just across the street from Jak's, about a three minute walk from our cabin.

After a bit of trial and error and directions from a local woman of the village, we found Yoli's, an enormous palapa covered bar set out over the water at the very southern-most tip of the peninsula. What struck us immediately was the unusual building techniques and materials used in the structure. The skeleton, consisting of milled hardwood posts and beams, was more in keeping with the supports of a New England barn than the typical Caribbean shacks that dot the coastline. We also noted that the bar and all of the furniture was handmade, carefully crafted of various colorful hardwoods, native to the region. Clearly, this was a labor of love that was meant to last. On a later visit, we would meet Regan. An expatriated U.S. builder, skilled craftsman and husband to Yoli, Regan built this restaurant and every table and chair with his own hands. We had a chance to tour his workshop nearby and see some more of the beautiful furniture projects he has in the works, dramatic bed frames designed for a friend and fellow developer in Placencia.

By chance, we found Yoli's Aunt who sent us off in the right direction with homemade muffins and sticky macaroons to snack on.

Bartender Eric whips up a mean Bloody Mary! My favorite way to start the day!

My adorable husband, clearly in his element!

After the obligatory email check in at The Purple Space Monkey, we wandered around town getting a feel for the place and slipping happily into the laid back Placencia lifestyle.

We strolled along the boardwalk, Placencia's pedestrian "Main Street".

We bought cinnamon sticky buns from "John the Bakerman".

We inhaled a typical Belizean lunch of stew chicken, rice and beans.

We bought sweet bread in Miss Beulah's living room.

We read quietly on the beach and soaked up some Caribbean sun.

We found just the right thing for Rob's sore back.

We observed the daily life and routines of the villagers around us.

Dusk was rapidly approaching and preparations for the lobster festival were now in full gear. A long, well-manned bar was set up under a large tent where we bought a stack of tickets good for dozens of $2 dollar local drinks and ice cold Belikins. Elyse Dial, local Placencian and unflagging organizer of the Lobsterfest, gathered this year's participants in the fishing tournament to read the rules and detail the prizes in each category. Perhaps due to the weather, the turn-out for the tournament seemed a bit slim but the group, while small, was enthusiastic and attentive.

Raquel Battles, who lost both of her parents to cancer, donated water safety and survival packs to all of the participants of the event. The red soft-sided coolers contained crank-able waterproof flashlights, small first aid kits and other items useful to a fisherman or anyone in need on the open sea. In honor of her parents, Sonia and Edlin Leslie Sr., The BlissfulSage Foundation was established to bring information about cancer awareness, prevention and treatment to residents in the more remote areas of Belize. Earlier in the morning, a 5 mile run/walk was held with proceeds to benefit The Edlin Leslie Sr. Hospice Care Program and Project Ensure, an initiative of The BlissfulSage Foundation to bring financial assistance and the nutritional supplement "Ensure" to needy children and adults battling cancer in southern Belize.

We grabbed a quick dinner at the always jumping Barefoot Bar, tossed back a few too many potent $2 dollar One Barrel and Sprites and then checked out the talent at The Purple Space Monkey karaoke contest. The grand prize of $1000 Belizean dollars brought out Placencia's best singers and tempted more than one tourist. In the end, a young local girl with a golden tongue and lungs of steal won over the judges and the crowd as well. Reluctantly, having reached "last call" we called it a night. I was loathe to admit it, but air-conditioning would have been a blessing. The winds that had churned up the seas and battered the shoreline finally called it quits, leaving us in a stifling, hot stillness and making it nearly impossible to sleep. We stripped off all clothing and as many covers as possible and tried not to touch each other. So much for our romantic long weekend!

Adding insult to injury, the electricity cut out first thing in the morning, leaving us without even the small relief of fans. The heat drove us out into the streets where the steady hum of generators let us know that these "blackouts" must be a regular occurrence. Within the hour, the electricity came back on and the town returned to life. Today, Wendy's Restaurant seemed the best option for breakfast, its cold AC a small consolation for a sticky, uncomfortable night. Enormous servings of hot, flaky fry-jacks stuffed with eggs, beans and cheese arrived at the table and instantly, our day started to look up. I tried the seaweed shake, famous to the region, and while it was delicious, sweet and cold, I failed to find the appeal. Perhaps my tastebuds had been dulled by the previous evening's rum consumption.

Back at the fairgrounds, Lobsterfest 2008 was well under way and the return of bright sunshine had everyone in high spirits. The Kendall bridge has been washed out again but somehow the craftsmen and bands all managed to make the trip from the mainland. Quite a few tourists had arrived in the past 24 hours insuring a profitable day for the local restaurateurs and vendors selling their wares. Booths were set up to support the various local not-for-profit organizations. The firemen sold t-shirts as did the Placencia Humane Society. The local chapter of the BTIA sold shirts and hats emblazoned with the official 2008 Lobsterfest design and, this year, added a lobster cookbook to their fundraising efforts, full of mouth-watering recipes submitted by local residents and chefs.

Following a late lunch of grilled lobster, baked beans, creamy coleslaw and, of course, rice and beans we cooled off with a few beers at Yoli's and then dashed over for the end of day weigh-in. The rough seas and hot sun were not kind to our fishermen, each coming back in varying shades of either green or red. Today's efforts, hindered by high swells and choppy surface waters, returned meager results. Out of the nine boats in competition, only three managed to return with fish that met the minimum weight requirements to qualify. Still it was fun to watch and cheer for the participants who, at very least, went home with food enough for a fine feast.

Placencia locals and tourists alike got in on the fun, despite the bad conditions, helping raise funds for the Placencia BTIA and bringing much needed revenue to this tiny village recently devastated by tropical storm Arthur. Congratulations to Elyse and all the people who worked so hard to make this event a great success. Although we had to leave on Sunday morning, we were glad to be in attendance for much of this event and pleased to help support this delightful village. Visiting an area for the first time, during events like this Lobsterfest, provides a wonderful opportunity to really see what a community is like, what the residents celebrate and are most proud of. Whether it's a small festival like The Blessing of the Fleet in Stonington Connecticut or a grand celebration like Carnival in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, your enjoyment of the area is sure to be heightened by the excitement generated by the shared experience.

(Or, maybe I just like a good party!)

Back to Belize - Part 1

2008-07-01T14:14:00Z

"They say your heart never leaves, once you've been down to Belize."

So says songwriter and part-time Belize resident Jerry Jeff Walker. Rob and I have been to Belize three times this year already and certainly these lyrics ring true for our family. I find myself reading and re-reading my online journal entries, pouring through page after page of pictures taken during our recent sixteen day adventure through this lush, green country. When plans to travel back to the U.S. for a popular food and wine festival fell through, I immediately suggested we venture south once more and visit some of the areas not reached on our last trip. Placencia a tiny creole fishing village set on the end of a peninsula in the Stann Creek region held a certain fascination for us and had been recommended as a fun destination by several like-minded friends. Despite the devastation and flooding brought earlier in June by tropical storm Arthur, we discovered that the residents of the village planned to push forward with their plans to celebrate the opening of lobster season with the much anticipated, annual three day party known as Lobsterfest. This event seemed like the perfect way to spend a long weekend and so, we tossed a few bags in the car and made the five and a half hour drive to Belize City's Goldson International Airport.

You know you're not in Kansas anymore at Jet's Bar in the Phillip Goldson International Airport. At just 4' 5" tall and 73 years of age, Jet has been serving up his world famous rum punch and hot dogs to thirsty travelers for the last 17 years. A true character and a force of nature, in 17 years he has missed just one day of work......the day he suffered a heart attack. I have a feeling Jet will there to greet visitors to Belize with his special brand of hospitality for many years to come.

View of Placencia Village from the now familiar Tropic Air prop plane. The pilot buzzed the end of the peninsula to give us all a good show before putting us safely down on the small airstrip north of town.

All said and done, the trip from Playa del Carmen to Placencia took us seven hours. We arrived starving and after checking into our beautiful bungalow at Turtle Inn (full review in process), we grabbed a cab into town to begin our weekend of conspicuous lobster consumption. Wendy's Restaurant, a local favorite owned and operated by Guatemalan born Wendy Lemus, came highly recommended but failed to impress. The restaurant was clean and pretty and the service was excellent but my meal, the grilled lobster was uninspired, tasteless and overcooked. We strongly suspected that dinner was not this restaurant's strong suit and made a note to return again for breakfast or lunch. Being one of the few (if any) dining establishments with air conditioning, we knew that Wendy's would make a fine mid-day oasis from the Belizean heat and humidity.

Back on the quiet streets of the village, we followed our ears to a boisterous hotspot across from the sports field. The Purple Space Monkey, clearly a favorite of locals and tourists alike, was packed to the rafters and hosting an evening of karaoke. As I generally cannot stomach karaoke (especially BAD karaoke) we amused ourselves making fun of the drunken tourists and playing "I Spy the Ex-Pat".

Enjoying the ubiquitous Belizean dinner of stew chicken with rice and beans, these local gentlemen turned a deaf ear to the shenanigans on the other side of the bar.

What she lacks in size she sure makes up for in spirit! This local woman brought the house down with her rendition of "Harper Valley PTA"!

Exhausted from a long day of travel and a few too many One Barrel and Sprites, we poured ourselves back to our resort and into bed and were quickly lulled to sleep by sounds of the incoming storm and the rain on the thatched roof overhead.

We slept in late the next day and after being denied breakfast at the resort's restaurant, we headed into town and returned to the scene of the karaoke crime. The Purple Space Monkey is an obvious goldmine. The bar is packed at night and the restaurant, serving delicious breakfast and lunch all day, is a pleasant place to sit and watch the world go by on "Main Street". There is a small lounge with a book exchange and three laptops set up with free internet access. Wireless internet is available as well for those of us who can't leave our technology at home! Several large screen TVs kept us entertained broadcasting the NBA Draft while great hits from the eighties played on Belize's favorite radio station, LoveFM.

Business has been good for the owners of PSM and they in turn have been good to the community sponsoring Placencia's new Youth Center. Painted the same bright "Space Monkey Purple", the Youth Center is located across from the sports field just a few doors north of the bar. Due to open in July, the center will house a library, computer lab and a recreation room. Free summer and after-school programs will be available to all children ages 6 to 16. Activities and hours for adults and seniors will also be provided. Stemming from the African saying "It takes a village to raise a child" the mission of this youth center encourages the cooperation of all residents of Placencia, each in their own way, to empower every child in the village to achieve their potential and fulfill their dreams. Truly, there is no more worthy an endeavor.

Waiting for take-out.

Helping set up for the festival.

NBA #1 Draft pick, 2023 !

After acquiring a golf cart, we toured around for a bit and quickly found THE place to spend a lazy afternoon. The Barefoot Beach Bar at Tipsy Tuna's was just the spot for us to relax over a few cold Belikins and chat up some fellow travelers. We had already identified some of the local ex-pats and many of them were in attendance chatting about their plans for the festival and playing backgammon. A row of wooden loungers that lined the beach sat empty as the ocean churned up piles of smelly seaweed torn loose by the recent storms. The sun did manage to peak through the clouds occasionally but this was certainly no "beach day".

After a few (too many) Belikins and some really remarkable bar food, we wandered over to the festival grounds to watch the preparations and scout out which booths we would visit the next day. A few vendors were already selling food and several Belizean wood carvers were displaying their wares, carefully carted in from the mainland.

The Placencia Children's Olympics, featuring a fierce soccer competition, played out on the beach. Rob and I agreed that our next visit to this village would absolutely include our kids.

Grilled skewers of lobster and sausage.

Pangs of hunger lead us to another local eatery, known for its seaside location and fresh seafood dinner. D' tatch Restaurant, named appropriately for its enormous thatched roof, lived up to its reputation with prompt, friendly service and tasty, well-prepared dishes.

Mounds of fresh beer battered conch.

Sadly, the countless beers consumed earlier in the day had taken their toll on us both and we were only able to manage half of our delicious dinners. Swollen and sleepy, we carted ourselves back to the resort and tucked in for the night.

Next up....Placencia Lobsterfest 2008!! I leave you with the words of Jerry Jeff Walker until my next entry.

Hey come away to Belize with me, show you how simple life can be
Long hazy days in the sun,
Where it seems everyone has a smile when we meet
Under blue skies and emerald seas, warm winds and those coconut trees
They say your heart never leaves, once you've been down to Belize

In daylight the sunlight chases the grey lights of lingering night
Down by the beach a lone hare
And he keeps his eye on the fish in the tide
But I hear the boats, of the fisherman going to the flats where the bonefishes run
And the folks of San Pedro, all driving the same road, start their long day in the sun

So, let's get a boat, and some snorkels and go on out to the reef
We'll leave the fat folks, who wear shoes and white socks with cameras back on the beach
There's no pain or sorrow, down by the coral and Susan and Brownie and me
And we'll fish by the reef, for some snappers to eat, as we race the ray back to the beach

So at sunset we'll go sit, way out on the old deck, till the pink light is gone
From a funky old bar, I can hear a guitar playing, playing a down island song
The moon on the water, the pina colada, something you just gotta see
And that's when you start to notice your heart, has fallen in love with Belize